tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37189417961720323502024-03-05T04:45:46.703-07:00Mountain Exposure: News and Views From the BackcountryA website dedicated to the blissful pursuit of the backcountry experience, wherever mountains rise, whenever snow falls, whether it be on one plank or two.David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comBlogger22125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-33387951842841433032013-06-14T13:35:00.000-06:002015-01-01T01:49:27.631-07:00Chamonix, Redux<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
In early April, after a brief and unfruitful visit to snow-starved Colorado, I made my way back to Chamonix for one more go-around in the Alps before the lifts closed for the season. Europe had had an epic winter, and I was lucky enough to have sampled the goods there on three occasions already. This time however, I was without my good friend and Euro riding partner Patrick, who had returned to the States in March to start a new job, zipping up his snowboard bag for the last time this year. I arrived on the morning of April 9th, just as a powerful storm blew in 6-8 inches of fresh up high and blanketed the valley with snowflakes the size of silver dollars. Despite poor visibility and slabby conditions, I was able to capitalize on my timing for a full week after the storm. I stayed in-bounds on day one and managed to score some untracked lines off the Grand Montets, just as the viz improved, and before the spring-skiing crowds converged behind me. Day two brought a few more traces of snow, and even with the late-season hordes, I found some stashes of powder hidden in the trees and along piste markers. </div>
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I had hoped to get some backcountry tours in when the skies cleared, as it was prime touring season, but conditions deteriorated rapidly as a considerable warming trend followed on the heels of the storm. In the first 48 hours, slabs released naturally on nearly all aspects, including one which obliterated a large section of a popular backcountry route below the Grand Montets summit known as the Pas du Chevre. This development put all of my off-piste itineraries on hold, at least for the next few days. But the instability persisted. On day four, while my friends and I were navigating an adjacent valley, a massive slab <a href="http://www.chamonet.com/events/news/avalanche-in-taconnaz-chamonix.html" target="_blank">avalanche</a> swept down the face of the Taconnaz glacier, very nearly taking out the highway below it. Amazingly, thanks to extensive engineering project that had been completed only a few years prior, the road (and the vehicles driving it) remained intact. Not everyone was as fortunate though, as several <a href="http://www.thelocal.fr/20130415/four-skiers-die-in-french-alps-avalanches#.UZy1RXYWono" target="_blank">fatalities</a> were reported in the Savoie region during this period. Our group pressed ahead, despite the risk. We hit some huge lines up high in cold, dry powder, operating within a small window of stability between morning and afternoon, and using elevation, terrain, and cloud cover to mitigate the risk of avalanche. Then, at the end of the week when things had settled further, I rode spring corn-like snow under bluebird skies while touring solo down the third largest glacier in Europe, wearing only my base layer for warmth. Mindful of my friend Patrick, who was toiling away at his cubicle somewhere on the other side of the world, unable to share in the spoils, I documented my adventures with regular emails just to keep him in the loop. Here is one which sort of sums up the trip:</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Myself, halfway down the Cosmiques Couloir (photorapher: Jeff Witt)</span></div>
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</i></span></i> <i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><i>From: David Hewett <davhewett@yahoo.com></i></span></i><br />
<i>To: Patrick Grady <patgrady@hotmail.com></i><br />
<i>Sent: Sunday, April 14th, 2013 8:16 AM</i><br />
<i>Subject: Chamonix Update</i><br />
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</i> <i>Patrick:</i><br />
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</i> <i>The guide I had been in contact with for the last few days (Keith Garvey) had apparently made other plans with another group of paying clients, as he did not make an effort to call me until last night. Of course I had not given him a deposit for his services, and no concrete plans had yet been made, since the weather has been iffy here, and I was unwilling to commit unless there was something rad to ski. Coincidently, I ran into his partner Eric here at the gite, which was a little awkward since I think he knew Garvey was stalling a bit on our arrangements. But, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Just two days ago, I met up with a friend of mine from Wyoming/California, who happens to be an Exum climbing guide. His name is Jeff Witt, a guy I shared bunks with at my guide training in Utah, the same guy who summited Everest a couple of years ago. We met at Elevation for beers and talked about skiing together and some possible objectives. Since he is relatively unfamiliar with the terrain here, we agreed to team up for some descents, with no fee involved. I was to provide local beta, and he was to handle technical duties. We discussed a plan for dropping into the Passerelle (off the Midi) from the bridge, using two 60m ropes, and three, possibly four rappels, but were concerned about accessibility and icy snow surfaces on very steep terrain. </i></div>
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<i>Jeff asked if he could bring two friends along from Jackson, since they were keen and had an extra rope (which we could use to build another rappel station while the party descended on the first rap). They were obviously eager to get after it, but they too lacked knowledge of the area, as they hadn't been here since 2000, and hadn't skied anything worthwhile on that trip anyway. Ironically, I was the only one in the group who could provide first hand knowledge of potential descents off the Midi. </i></div>
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<i>We met at the tram station first thing in the morning. Luckily, Jeff arranged for reservations on the second or third box prior to our arrival. The two guys who joined in turned out to be excellent skiers and skilled mountaineers. Brian I recognized as one of the city bus drivers from Jackson who has shuttled me between my house in Wilson and JHM</i><i>R for years, always with NPR playing on the radio (I always thought that was cool). Turns out he was a frequent partner of Steve Romeo (from TetonAT) and Chris Onufer before their <a href="http://mountainexposure.blogspot.com/2012/06/happy-birthday-steve-romeo.html" target="_blank">accident</a>. Perhaps more interesting is that the other guy, Brandon Spackman, is the younger brother of </i>Jarad Spackman<i>, who died last month in the <a href="http://www.jhnewsandguide.com/article.php?art_id=9624" target="_blank">Apocalypse couloir</a>. He is a great guy; soft spoken and cerebral, a fantastic skier, likes to surf, likes to drink a little (who could blame him), and is an outstanding outdoorsman! You guys would get along great. Understandably, I did not press him on details about his brother.</i></div>
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<i>When we arrived at the top station, we discovered that the south side of the bridge (and thus the rappel point) was under construction and blocked by fencing. It was windy and cold, and we were unsure of whether or not we would get into trouble for rapping off the bridge from the opposite side. Plus, we would have to build new anchors/belay stations from scratch, which would be a little nerve-wracking, and also costly, since we would have to leave behind a good deal of our gear on the rock as we descended.</i></div>
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<i>We bailed and agreed to try the Rond first, as a warm-up, saving the Cosmiques for the finale. After hiking the ridge, we skied down behind the Arete, dodging crevasses along the way, and booted up to the entrance of the Cosmiques. We stashed the extra rope behind some rocks and proceeded to the traverse. Having been there before, and remembering how challenging it was, I decided to use my boot crampons and hike it, with my snowboard on my back. At first, I felt sure-footed and confident, but soon became nervous as I was off-belay the whole time, partly because I was leading the group to the access point and felt a little rushed to get there. Let me tell you man, that traverse is still one of the scariest things I have ever done. My fear was tempered only by knowing I had crossed it successfully once </i><i><a href="http://mountainexposure.blogspot.com/2012/04/the-french-alps-chamonix-part-one.html" target="_blank">before</a>. Next time I will definitely make use of a belay! I made it, obviously, and we rode out the Rond and the lower Cunningham in fantastic conditions, looking up at the Passerelle on the way down. After a long hike out (which I will never do again without a split!), we rode up again to the summit from the midstation, worked our way behind the arete, returned to the stashed gear, and dropped the Cosmiques, but from a different approach than the one I had used previously.</i></div>
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<i>But two interesting things happened at the midstation. First, since I had taken at least 20 to 30 minutes longer than the other guys (who were on skis), they stopped for beers and a smoke on the patio of this fantastically situated snack bar, and waited for me. There, they/we watched as two guys descended one of the gnarliest ski lines known to man, called the Mallory Route, off the direct north face of the Aiguille du Midi. Super steep, super exposed, super committed, with a nasty, wind-crusted, hyper-exposed traverse on the entry! At one point, these guys sidestepped, off-belay, some 30 or 40 meters down one of the scariest and steepest curtain walls I have ever seen outside of Alaska! Of course, a large portion of the route consisted of rappelling and down-climbing, as many sections are simply unskiable. But to even have the balls to put skis on your feet on that face, with that degree of exposure, is one of the most impressive things I have ever seen! We could see their tracks all the way up from the tram ride, zig-zagging down through impossibly steep terrain (the Eugster was also skied that morning by a separate party; this is an equally gnarly line, right to the skier's left of the Mallory, but is more skiable, with only two raps, and a more obvious path and runout).</i></div>
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<i>Also, just before boarding the tram, we ran into those guys from Jackson whom you rode with on your last day here, after I left town in February. Jeff, Brandon, Brian, and myself had a nice chat with them since we all shared a common history. We saw them again a little while later as they ended up following us into the Cosmiques soon after our meeting. The more talkative one (can't remember his name) is apparently an accomplished mountaineer, as he was leading his friends rather calmly through the rappels behind us. He would be a good guy to hook up with next year, if he is back here again. (There seems to be a lot of people here from Jackson, including the snowboarder pictured above, whom we met on-slope. I also talked with a girl named Holly, who you might remember from Osteria, and her friend on the bus the previous day; and the guys recognized and talked to two Jackson locals at the bar later that evening). </i></div>
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<i>The Cosmiques was sick, as you can imagine! Great powder, and deep, untracked lines still left from the morning, as only a handful of skiers had been in there since the last snowfall (ski patrol had closed the Midi on Friday due to wind/avy danger). Jeff dropped us in on a hand line to the rappel point from a large rock horn as we downclimbed with crampons and skis/snowboards on our backs. Brandon descended first to set up the first rappel and a possible second, and to provide a belay from below (otherwise known as a fireman's belay). I went second, on rappel, but Jeff lowered me from the anchor with a second rope on his belay device at the same time to provide extra security (the ropes were actually tied together allowing enough length to make a single rappel, but he tied the second rope off somehow and pitched out the unused portion to belay me!) I needed neither a prusik, nor a fireman's belay, since Jeff had me the whole way down on the second line! It was a super clever way of providing security for those less inclined, or for anyone dropping in before him really, as he would have to use both strands to rappel down himself as the last man anyway. This is exactly the method I will employ when we descend the Cosmiques together next year, though I may add an extra element of security in the form of a prusik hitch, and then have you unclip from your belay device at the end of the rap, and either hang off the belay, or the prusik, or both, while you take off your pack/crampons, and put on your snowboard. What was great about this particular entry route is that with two ropes tied together, you need only one rap, versus the two or three required on the traditional approach. That not only saves a lot of time, but eases the transitions (stacking and coiling of ropes, clipping and unclipping, building new rappel stations, etc.), and makes things a lot safer should anything go wrong. </i></div>
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<i>We skied some 8,000 vertical feet down to the tunnel, across a large section of the Bossons Glacier, below some crazy seracs, and on the beginning (or end) of the summer trail, on snow the whole way down! It was a magnificent run; you would have loved it! I was so lucky to have run into these guys, as it was safe and super fun, and I got good beta on the next descent, whenever that might be!</i></div>
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<i>Incidentally, when I returned to the gite late last night, from apres at Elevation (where I met two friendly American girls!), and pizza at the Italian place (I got the Sicilia this time!), and a whiskey at one of those bars on the alley (where I ran into your friend Camille from our first visit), Garvey had left me a message asking if I wanted to ski the Cosmiques with him today for a reduced, half-day fee! I told him thanks anyway, but I just dropped it with my friends, for the price of a few beers! Those boys ended up saving me at least 350 bucks!</i></div>
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<i>Great trip so far, with more to come as the guys are staying until Friday! Hope things are good for you there in Hawaii.</i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Poubelle Couloir, Grand Montets backcountry, Mt. Blanc and the Aiguille du Midi in the bacground</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Rappel point, Poubelle Couloir</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Poubelle Couloir (slab city!)</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Same Couloir, different day</span></i></div>
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO6gF4ECau9tvq_3oY6YGO1p5ZF6j12qUL8xwfLpIvHpU4_yJ2b_WwzjqAtejTl3f4oNrBSRck2PDwiP0BNYWkb2uqMjoy9zTHpAqJ2MQ6hyphenhyphenKoRGd7ZEF-Vf4KeXko55aN16Ti7Bkc3VI/s1600/DSC_4100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO6gF4ECau9tvq_3oY6YGO1p5ZF6j12qUL8xwfLpIvHpU4_yJ2b_WwzjqAtejTl3f4oNrBSRck2PDwiP0BNYWkb2uqMjoy9zTHpAqJ2MQ6hyphenhyphenKoRGd7ZEF-Vf4KeXko55aN16Ti7Bkc3VI/s400/DSC_4100.JPG" height="265" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">again</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Author's snowboard</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Rappel point, different day, slightly different angle, slightly better shape</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">East Ridge, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Aiguille du Midi,</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> just below the summit, with the Aiguille Verte in the distance</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The "Traverse" to the Glacier Rond</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">same, looking down</span></i></div>
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0cowNKidqLFn9wtI7agGzE2Rls9g2ELPDHo1SpklUk_erNWmybGCjAUWhDZZ4ylaiMmMTlpzu-ywS8RLrrvvkB83wQLPVoHhVr7uYXHy5WFVPbHwkRll842XYN1_iJpIRrJ0hJjCCC7E/s1600/IMG_0846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0cowNKidqLFn9wtI7agGzE2Rls9g2ELPDHo1SpklUk_erNWmybGCjAUWhDZZ4ylaiMmMTlpzu-ywS8RLrrvvkB83wQLPVoHhVr7uYXHy5WFVPbHwkRll842XYN1_iJpIRrJ0hJjCCC7E/s400/IMG_0846.JPG" height="300" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Entry, Glacier Rond; very steep and this day, very slick!</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">same</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">same</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Cunningham Couloir</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">same</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">again</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Jeff, Brandon, Brian on the patio of the snack bar, midstation, Aiguille du Midi</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Cosmiques, normal entry</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Cosmiques Couloir, alternate entry</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Jeff, manning the belay</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Unknown skier, contemplating the view</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Jeff, on the downclimb</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Brandon</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Jeff, Bossons Glacier, Aiguille du Midi in the background</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">More Photos:</span></i></div>
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<i> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">East Ridge, Aiguille Rouges, Aiguille Verte, Grandes Jorasses</span></i></div>
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<i> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Passerelle Couloir</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> East Ridge</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">again</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">again</span></i></div>
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixOFCUVOQIhAR99yL1_vAVNUreOGD94CdA2gRNDhmqFOVWMf4iWWm_143wmEMQ7MCCjSqm_mwcqammm0n9pjCFlDIjaMubaSgKzoxThQGI1mCGNFFT0K4QeJ_28tQApHAENq449RbghA4/s1600/DSC_4184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixOFCUVOQIhAR99yL1_vAVNUreOGD94CdA2gRNDhmqFOVWMf4iWWm_143wmEMQ7MCCjSqm_mwcqammm0n9pjCFlDIjaMubaSgKzoxThQGI1mCGNFFT0K4QeJ_28tQApHAENq449RbghA4/s400/DSC_4184.JPG" height="265" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">same</span></i></div>
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKS_BW2peL_GfxBDWVKVs-7EsnjTwX0OeCZ-LZdRcATg-BN3w5sxxs4n-SiTeJSWPd7eho8JT6lKJO8UV95ZWC_2qo5bIyV_a8ihvOVKeL9qCETKhvXBndtBEeyoUMsIBctSHUiMYhzU0/s1600/DSC_4185+-+Version+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKS_BW2peL_GfxBDWVKVs-7EsnjTwX0OeCZ-LZdRcATg-BN3w5sxxs4n-SiTeJSWPd7eho8JT6lKJO8UV95ZWC_2qo5bIyV_a8ihvOVKeL9qCETKhvXBndtBEeyoUMsIBctSHUiMYhzU0/s400/DSC_4185+-+Version+2.jpg" height="265" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> the hike</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Looking down 9,000' to the valley</span></i></div>
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<i> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs-PjlWiwSwHLTTcXEYQuE9BT4z2pMLb_IqFR2-JXSB5y9Sj5hStFmb7mMyVZL6jkm27hvcvfwZT2Ghzz19FcRcypgSZvXESicbGesN5Ue8Xp90_tmE5cludXEUZtDpBI43CXHDJtypxA/s1600/DSC_4221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs-PjlWiwSwHLTTcXEYQuE9BT4z2pMLb_IqFR2-JXSB5y9Sj5hStFmb7mMyVZL6jkm27hvcvfwZT2Ghzz19FcRcypgSZvXESicbGesN5Ue8Xp90_tmE5cludXEUZtDpBI43CXHDJtypxA/s400/DSC_4221.JPG" height="265" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Cosmiques</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Cosmiques</span></i></div>
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSZzNp-VelNDPITzYqwl0-NNBplu-ulVbc2hE6zFU9rxyBcO4f1jIT2-dLxmTQHtH2s1K_sxuRLUXiPP4oh1muilICcFT0QfABnDhiN4dSdCf3utky577X5nHgQGt3IU2TPB_qmvR2Ggs/s1600/DSC_4203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSZzNp-VelNDPITzYqwl0-NNBplu-ulVbc2hE6zFU9rxyBcO4f1jIT2-dLxmTQHtH2s1K_sxuRLUXiPP4oh1muilICcFT0QfABnDhiN4dSdCf3utky577X5nHgQGt3IU2TPB_qmvR2Ggs/s400/DSC_4203.JPG" height="265" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></i></div>
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<i> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Cosmiques</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Cosmiques, from the old tram station, skier on the traverse; Glacier Rond on the right</span></i></div>
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<i> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">same</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">again</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS-Ykym0dQ113lzEpbVVwRlTEZOMEb8wW07_icvYMJsqUtE_njci_zsNqBx56xJS-dDrjKkWxma0odGEs8dfWrr37dWJYeyuN4HLGUarU_vY8whfZocwiEgUzGxQGryCtVGcHZV4WsOzw/s1600/DSC_4258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS-Ykym0dQ113lzEpbVVwRlTEZOMEb8wW07_icvYMJsqUtE_njci_zsNqBx56xJS-dDrjKkWxma0odGEs8dfWrr37dWJYeyuN4HLGUarU_vY8whfZocwiEgUzGxQGryCtVGcHZV4WsOzw/s400/DSC_4258.JPG" height="265" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> wide angle</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Tour Ronde, Grand Capucin, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, Gervasutti/Jager Couloirs, left to right</span> </i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Glacier melt, Mer du Glace</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuoHnGUeNKUPo_LQbSiesNLgGDNZ9rAoTJXY2GtBX-A1LCvQxwXNXkPaOAONeGZK5wqvHnBKmjzq_T29dFOopqp_36UoZlstcBwJEC2xPRXq0PRPQFkvwN3QI9Kbr8Puuk-AQzq3b_q3A/s1600/DSC_4336+-+Version+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuoHnGUeNKUPo_LQbSiesNLgGDNZ9rAoTJXY2GtBX-A1LCvQxwXNXkPaOAONeGZK5wqvHnBKmjzq_T29dFOopqp_36UoZlstcBwJEC2xPRXq0PRPQFkvwN3QI9Kbr8Puuk-AQzq3b_q3A/s400/DSC_4336+-+Version+2.jpg" height="265" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></span></span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">same</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">again</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">and in black and white</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">again</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Inside the Mer du Glace</span></i></div>
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<i> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">same</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">same</span></i></div>
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</i>David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-57473802261760581132013-02-28T06:34:00.001-07:002013-05-23T06:48:06.685-06:00Anatomy of an Avalanche<div style="text-align: justify;">
The New York Times, still one of the best sources of news and information available in the English-speaking (and increasingly multimedia-driven) world, has done it again, this time in the realm of backcountry skiing. The following is perhaps the best and most complete report of an avalanche incident ever conducted, and a must read for any backcountry enthusiast:<br />
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<a href="http://www.nytimes.com/projects/2012/snow-fall/#/?part=tunnel-creek" target="_blank"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Snowfall: the Avalanche at Tunnel Creek</span></a></div>
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*Related: Another must read from Bruce Tremper, director of the Utah Avalanche Center and avalanche guru:<br />
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<a href="http://www.adventure-journal.com/2013/03/the-truth-about-airbags-and-avalanche-survival/" target="_blank">The Truth About Airbags and Avalanche Survival</a></div>
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<br />David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-53954148676662893272012-11-06T15:04:00.000-07:002012-11-06T15:06:32.672-07:00Get Up. Get Out. Don't Sit.<div style="text-align: justify;">
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An illuminating article on the health effects of a sedentary lifestyle, by Gretchen Reynolds of the New York Times: <a href="http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/10/17/get-up-get-out-dont-sit/" target="_blank">Get Up. Get Out. Don't Sit.</a></div>
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Related: <a href="http://economix.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/06/26/the-old-and-uneducated-watch-the-most-tv/" target="_blank">The Old and Uneducated Watch the Most TV</a></div>
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More Physical Education: <a href="http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/12/29/phys-ed-if-you-are-fit-you-can-take-it-easy/" target="_blank">If You Are Fit, You Can Take It Easy</a></div>
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David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-5982897915009224762012-10-25T08:30:00.001-06:002013-06-07T13:31:35.526-06:00Adventures of a Lifetime<div style="text-align: justify;">
Late fall is one of my least favorite times of year. The leaves have fallen, the colors are gone, and that slight chill in the air has turned downright cold. The water has become too chilly for swimming or surfing, and rock, like the handlebar grips on my bicycle, is just too cold to hold. In the Northeast anyway, it starts to rain and a dreary overcast hangs in the sky. Snow makes it first appearance in the mountains, signaling the official end of the climbing season. This is the time of year (at least at this latitude) when the opportunities for travel and adventure are most limited, either by the uncooperative weather, by circumstance, or by financial obligation. For most, the lazy indulgence of summer is over. With the kids back in school, and credit card balances out of sorts, it's time to focus on work. But it is also a great opportunity to plan, and planning can be a healthy and rewarding exercise all by itself. I've been working for some time now trying to compile a list of the world's greatest adventures, at least as it relates to my own interests, and I think I've finally come up with something in the last few days. I originally intended to keep the list at the nice round (and slightly more manageable) number of fifty. But, given the wide range of possibilities available around the globe, that quickly became an impossibility. So I've settled on 60. I'm sure that I've left some good ones out, and a few might be considered less deserving to some, but they are mine. Of course, the curse of travel, if there is one, is that it leads to further discovery, so it is inevitable that the list will grow. But here it is, in its first iteration anyway. I hope it will serve to motivate and inspire you in the same way it has for me. </div>
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<i>Note: As I to put this thing together, I realized, in the context of experience, health, age, and opportunity, how short one's life can be, and how truly precious it is. I also became more aware of the rapid environmental changes that are occurring in many of these places, mostly because of commerce, pollution and global warming, but also as a result of increased mobility and tourism (this information is intended only for family and friends, so please don't share!) There are many great places in the world that remain unspoiled, but there are fewer of them every year; there isn't much time to visit them in their current state. Of course, if you're anywhere close to my age, there isn't much time left anyway. If you have an inclination to visit these places, or any other, you should plan, you should budget, you should arrange for time off from work...call me, if you need a partner. But whatever and wherever you choose, don't wait any longer. Go now! </i><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">MY ADVENTURES OF A LIFETIME:</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;"></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The World's Best Adventure Trips</span></span></span></div>
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01. Trek to <a href="http://www.nationalgeographicexpeditions.com/expeditions/nepal-everest-basecamp-trek/detail" target="_blank">Everest Base Camp</a>, Nepal</div>
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02. Climb the <a href="http://www.cosleyhouston.com/matterhorn.htm" target="_blank">Matterhorn</a>, <a href="http://images.summitpost.org/original/714538.JPG" target="_blank">Switzerland</a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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03. Climb and ski the <a href="http://www.tetonat.com/2010/05/17/mega-grand-teton-fordstettner-ski-descent-photo-tr/" target="_blank">Grand Teton</a>, GTNP, Wyoming<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">***</span></div>
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04. Climb and ski <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mont_Blanc" target="_blank">Mt. Blanc</a>, <a href="http://www.alexandrebuisse.org/blog/Skiing-Mont-Blanc" target="_blank">Gouter Route</a>, Chamonix, France<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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05. Explore the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/chis/index.htm" target="_blank">Channel Islands</a>, overland and undersea, Southern California<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">***</span></div>
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06. Raft the <a href="http://www.earthriver.com/index.php/fu-virtual-tour" target="_blank">Fataleufu River</a>, Patagonia, Chile</div>
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07. Raft the <a href="http://www.google.com/imgres?q=redwall+cavern+grand+canyon+rafting&um=1&hl=en&client=safari&sa=N&rls=en&biw=1438&bih=780&tbm=isch&tbnid=i_F5liTmDvzZfM:&imgrefurl=http://www.tomgoetz.com/grandcanyon/gcz718.htm&docid=G92aq539ZXZ4_M&imgurl=http://www.tomgoetz.com/grandcanyon/gcz-082.jpg&w=600&h=400&ei=b1eIUNLSEcms0AHUnYGYAg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=794&vpy=155&dur=220&hovh=183&hovw=275&tx=106&ty=131&sig=111201069590725898456&page=1&tbnh=134&tbnw=194&start=0&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:0,i:80" target="_blank">Colorado</a>, <a href="http://www.slrobertson.com/grand-canyon-landscapes.htm" target="_blank">Grand Canyon</a>, Arizona</div>
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08. Raft the <a href="http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2011/11/americas-wild-rivers/melford-photography#/04-chattooga-river-south-carolina-670.jpg" target="_blank">Chattooga River</a> with my brother, Georgia<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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09. Raft the <a href="http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2011/11/americas-wild-rivers/melford-photography#/07-salmon-river-middle-fork-idaho-670.jpg" target="_blank">Middle Fork of the Salmon</a>, Idaho</div>
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10. Hike the <a href="http://www.ultimatehikes.co.nz/en/guided-walks/the-milford-track" target="_blank">Milford Track</a>, Fjordland, South Island, New Zealand<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">***</span></div>
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11. Hike the <a href="http://www.ultimatehikes.co.nz/en/guided-walks/the-routeburn-track" target="_blank">Routeburn Track</a>, Fjordland, South Island, New Zealand<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">*</span></div>
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12. Hike the <a href="http://www.newzealand.com/us/article/abel-tasman-coast-track/" target="_blank">Abel Tasman Track</a>, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">*</span></div>
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13. Hike the <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2009/nov/01/trek-corsica-grande-randonee" target="_blank">G20</a>, Corsica, France<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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14. Hike the <a href="http://www.nationalgeographicexpeditions.com/expeditions/tourdumontblanc/detail" target="_blank">Mt. Blanc Circuit</a> (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tour_du_Mont_Blanc" target="_blank">Tour du Mont Blanc</a>), France/Italy/Switzerland</div>
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15. Road and/or mountain bike the <a href="http://dolomitesport.com/tag/alta-badia/" target="_blank">Sella Ronda</a>, <a href="http://www.widerange.org/gallery/dolomites/" target="_blank">Dolomites</a>, Italy<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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16. Hike and ski the <a href="http://www.cosleyhouston.com/haute-route-verbier.htm" target="_blank">Haute Route</a>, <a href="http://www.cosleyhouston.com/haute-route-plateau.htm" target="_blank">Chamonix to Zermatt</a>, <a href="http://dolomitesport.com/2011/05/the-european-alps-grand-ski-tours-compared/" target="_blank">France/Switzerland</a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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17. Hike and ski the <a href="http://www.cosleyhouston.com/berner-tour.htm" target="_blank">Berner Oberland</a>, Switzerland<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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18. Hike, climb and ski <a href="http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/britishcolumbia/waddingtonaerial" target="_blank">Mt. Waddington</a>, British Columbia</div>
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19. Heli-ski in the <a href="http://www.valdezheliskiguides.com/index.html" target="_blank">Chugach</a>, Alaska</div>
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20. Snowboard the French Alps, <a href="http://cosleyhouston.com/alps-ski-chamonix.htm#vb" target="_blank">Chamonix</a>, <a href="http://www.guidecourmayeur.com/montebianco/home-guide-alpine-courmayeur-english.html" target="_blank">Courmayeur</a>, <a href="http://www.valdisere.com/valdisere/fr/page/valdisere/accueil" target="_blank">Val d'Isere</a>, and <a href="http://www.adventure-journal.com/2012/03/the-ski-patrol-of-la-grave-france/" target="_blank">La Grave</a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">***</span></div>
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21. Snowboard the <a href="http://www.alpineguides.no/norway/lofoten-ski-guides/" target="_blank">Lofoten Islands</a>, Arctic Circle, Norway</div>
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22. Snowboard the world's biggest and most remote couloirs, <a href="http://vimeo.com/33516816" target="_blank">Baffin Island</a>, Nunavut, Canada</div>
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23. Climb <a href="http://www.cloudsplitterguides.com/blogs/bd/2008/09/07/Cloudsplitter-Mountain-Guides-are-your-ticket-to-climb-Wallface-Mountain.DSH.-the-East.SQT.s-biggest.CMA.-baddest-wilderness-cliff/" target="_blank">Wallface</a>, highest in the eastern United States, Adirondacks, New York<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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24. Climb <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Capitan" target="_blank">El Capitan</a>, one of the highest in the world, <a href="http://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm" target="_blank">Yosemite National Park</a>, California</div>
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25. Hike and kayak the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C4%81_Pali_Coast_State_Park" target="_blank">Na Pali Coast</a>, Kaua'i, Hawai<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">***</span></div>
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26. Trek to the base of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerro_Torre" target="_blank">Cerro Torre</a>, <a href="http://www.widerange.org/gallery/patagonia/" target="_blank">Southern Patagonia</a>, Argentina/Chile<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">*</span></div>
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27. Trek El Circuito, <a href="http://www.widerange.org/gallery/torres-del-paine-patagonia/" target="_blank">Torres del Paine</a> National Park, Chile<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">*</span></div>
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28. Summer skiing in the Andes, <a href="http://www.skiportillo.com/?lang=en" target="_blank">Portillo</a>, Chile<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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29. Explore <a href="http://www.lordhowe.com/" target="_blank">Lord Howe Island</a>, New South Wales, Tasman Sea</div>
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30. Explore the <a href="http://www.visitnorway.com/us/" target="_blank">Norwegian fjords</a>: hike, bike, boat, train, Scandinavia<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">*</span></div>
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31. Mountain bike <a href="http://www.mtbikewnc.com/trailheads/nantahala-national-forest/cheoah-ranger-district/tsali-recreation-area/" target="_blank">The Tsali Trails</a>, Bryson, North Carolina<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">*</span></div>
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32. Mountain bike the Slickrock and Porcupine Rim trails, <a href="http://www.discovermoab.com/sandflats.htm" target="_blank">Moab</a>, Utah<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">*</span></div>
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33. Dive the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Barrier_Reef" target="_blank">Great Barrier Reef</a>, Australia</div>
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35. Mountain bike the <a href="http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/trips/americas-best-adventures/bike-tahoe-rim-trail/" target="_blank">Flume Trail</a>/<a href="http://www.singletracks.com/mountain-bike/best_trails.php" target="_blank">Tahoe Rim Trail</a>, Lake Tahoe, California<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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36. Mountain bike <a href="http://www.whistlerbikeguide.com/trails/comfortably-numb" target="_blank">Comfortably Numb</a>, <a href="http://www.whistler.com/" target="_blank">Whistler</a>, British Columbia</div>
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37. Hike the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/jmt.htm" target="_blank">John Muir Trail</a>, Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada, California<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">***</span></div>
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38. Complete the <a href="http://patitucciphoto.com/2012/08/06/the-swiss-crisscross/" target="_blank">Swiss CrissCross</a>, road and mountain bike traverse of the alps, Switzerland<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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39. Ski traverse of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viedma_Glacier" target="_blank">Viedma Glacier</a>, Southern Patagonian Icefield, Argentina/Chile</div>
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40. Canyoneering, the Narrows/<a href="http://mountainexposure.blogspot.com/2011/12/canyoneering-in-zion-national-park.html" target="_blank">Echo Canyon</a>, <a href="http://www.nps.gov/zion/index.htm" target="_blank">Zion National Park</a>, Utah<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">*</span></div>
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41. Hike <a href="http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/06/26/travel/in-peru-machu-picchu-and-its-sibling-incan-ruins-along-the-way.html?pagewanted=all" target="_blank">Machu Picchu</a> and the <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2011/06/26/travel/20110626-machupicchu-gb.html?ref=travel" target="_blank">Urumbamba Valley</a>, Peru<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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42. Hike the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/hale/index.htm" target="_blank">Haleakala Crater</a> and the <a href="http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/road-trips/maui-hana-coast-road-trip/" target="_blank">Hana Coast</a>, Maui, Hawai'i<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">*</span></div>
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43. Hike the <a href="http://www.widerange.org/photo/quesillococha-siula/?search=rugged%20mountains" target="_blank">Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit</a>, Peru<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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44. Hike and climb, <a href="http://www.germanplaces.com/germany/berchtesgaden-national-park.html" target="_blank">Berchtesgaden National Park</a>, Bavarian Alps, Germany<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">*</span></div>
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45. Thru hike the <a href="http://www.coloradotrailhiking.com/" target="_blank">Colorado Trail</a> from Denver to Durango</div>
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46. Surf trip: <a href="http://travel.nytimes.com/2012/09/30/travel/waves-and-wildlife-in-costa-rica.html" target="_blank">Playa Guiones</a> and <a href="http://www.nationalgeographicexpeditions.com/expeditions/canadian-rockies-tour/detail" target="_blank">Puerto Viejo</a>, Costa Rica<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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47. Surf the longest break in Europe: <a href="http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/mundaka-spain_6894/travel/" target="_blank">Mundaka</a>, Basque Coast, Spain</div>
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48. Surf the big waves of the North Shore of <a href="http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/passing-time-on-the-north-shore_64483" target="_blank">O'ahu</a>, and <a href="http://www.outsideonline.com/blog/outdoor-adventure/a-highlight-reel-of-surfers-paddling-into-jaws.html" target="_blank">Maui</a>, Hawai'i</div>
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49. Surf trip: Raglan, Piha, Taranaki, Wellington, Dunedin, and the Far North, <a href="http://www.newzealandsurftours.com/nz-surf-spots.php" target="_blank">New Zealand</a></div>
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50. Climb and snowboard Monte Rosa and the <a href="http://www.lucapandolfi.com/2007/04/monte-rosa-east-face-marinelli-couloir-16-04-2007/" target="_blank">Marinelli Couloir</a>, via <a href="http://images.summitpost.org/original/714538.JPG" target="_blank">Monte Rosa hut</a>, Zermatt, Switzerland<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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51. Snowboard the <a href="http://adventureblog.nationalgeographic.com/2012/04/05/skiing-the-great-canadian-ski-road-trip-of-2012-revelstoke-and-kicking-horse-b-c/" target="_blank">Canadian Rockies</a>; Banff, Jasper, Kicking Horse, <a href="http://www.revelstokemountainresort.com/" target="_blank">Revelstoke</a>, Canada</div>
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52. Snowboard the Italian and Swiss Alps; <a href="http://www.zermatt.ch/en/index.cfm" target="_blank">Zermatt</a>, <a href="http://www.wheretoskiandsnowboard.com/resorts/Alagna/" target="_blank">Alagna</a>, <a href="http://www.verbierexclusive.com/verbier.htm" target="_blank">Verbier</a>, and <a href="http://dolomitesport.com/tag/alta-badia/" target="_blank">Canazei</a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">***</span></div>
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53. Hike the Little Beaver and Big Beaver <a href="http://www.nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/upload/rosslake_6-08.pdf" target="_blank">circuit</a>, Ross Lake, <a href="http://www.nps.gov/noca/index.htm" target="_blank">North Cascades National Park</a>, Washington</div>
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54. Hike, climb, and snowboard the <a href="http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/41475610" target="_blank">Fire Lookouts</a>, <a href="http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/41475600" target="_blank">North Cascades</a>, Washington</div>
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55. Hike, climb, and snowboard the biggest lines in the <a href="http://www.tetonat.com/" target="_blank">Tetons</a>, GTNP, Wyoming<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">***</span></div>
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56. Hike, climb, and snowboard the biggest lines in the <a href="http://www.widerange.org/gallery/colorado-skiing-snowboarding/999/" target="_blank">San Juans</a>, southwest Colorado<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">***</span></div>
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57. Explore <a href="http://www.flickriver.com/places/Spain/Balearic+Islands/Cap+de+Formentor/search/" target="_blank">Cap Formentor</a>, Mallorca by roadbike, Balearic Islands, Spain<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span></div>
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58. Explore the islands and waters of <a href="http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/countries/palau-photos/" target="_blank">Palau</a>, <a href="http://photography.nationalgeographic.com/photography/enlarge/republic-palau-aerial.html" target="_blank">Micronesia</a></div>
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59. Expore and surf the waters of Rapa Nui (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Easter_Island" target="_blank">Easter Island</a>), Polynesia, Chile</div>
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60. Sail, camp, and explore <a href="http://www.nps.gov/cuis/index.htm" target="_blank">Cumberland Island</a> Georgia with my dad<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">***</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">*</span> completed</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">**</span> in the works for 2012/2013</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6fa8dc;">*** </span>partially completed and in the works<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">>NEW: <a href="http://mountainexposure.blogspot.com/p/other.html" target="_blank">For A Complete List of the World's Greatest Adventures, Click Here</a><</span></div>
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David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-49437233304400715292012-10-12T15:15:00.000-06:002012-10-28T10:15:51.873-06:00Adventure Photography Workshop<div style="text-align: justify;">
Two weeks ago I attended a photography workshop in Jackson, Wyoming organized by Rich Clarkson and Associates out of Boulder, Colorado and sponsored by National Geographic magazine, Nikon cameras, and The North Face. The workshop was attended by some thirty amateur and professional photographers looking both to hone their skills and network with some of the most important people in the business. The faculty consisted of some of the leading adventure photographers in the world, including the senior photo editor of National Geographic and National Geographic Adventure magazines, a marketing executive for The North Face, and technical assistants from Nikon and Rich Clarkson. Photographers <a href="http://www.lucasgilman.com/" target="_blank">Lucas Gilman</a> (whitewater), <a href="http://www.burkardphoto.com/" target="_blank">Chris Burkard</a> (surfing), <a href="http://www.ladzinski.com/site/" target="_blank">Keith Ladzinsk</a>i (climbing), and <a href="http://www.coreyrich.com/" target="_blank">Corey Rich</a> (adventure) represented a range of genres, and contributed unique perspectives on technique, methodology, and publishing tips. Each faculty member delivered a presentation to the class, offered critiques, and led demonstrations in the field. We hiked up to the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort's downhill bike course to photograph competitive mountain bikers, rafted the Snake River to shoot a group of local kayakers and stand-up paddle boarders, hung from ropes to capture Exum mountain guides climbing the big walls of Corbet's Couloir at the top of the Tram, and camped under the stars to document running, fishing, and outdoor lifestyle in the Grand Teton National Park. The workshop also enlisted some of the most accomplished athletes in the world to serve as models, including legendary climber and photographer <a href="http://www.jimmychin.com/#p=-1&a=0&at=0" target="_blank">Jimmy Chin</a>, who holds the speed record for a free solo of the Grand Traverse in the Tetons (among many other <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jimmy_Chin" target="_blank">feats</a>); champion freeskier <a href="http://lynseydyer.com/" target="_blank">Lynsey Dyer</a>, the first female ever to grace the cover of <a href="http://rhymeswithnog.com/work/" target="_blank">Freeskier</a> magazine; and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kit_DesLauriers" target="_blank">Kit Deslauriers</a>, the first person in history to ski all Seven Summits (one of only a handful of women to have even climbed them in the first place). Photographing these guys required some athleticism of our own, as it was a challenge just to keep pace with them. It was an incredible week of instruction, adventure, and camaraderie. Here is a selection of some of the best shots of the week (you will have to guess which ones are mine):<br />
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THE BEST:</div>
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David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-2796911731878975472012-07-13T10:43:00.001-06:002013-05-23T05:13:51.294-06:00Avalanche in Chamonix Kills Nine Climbers<div style="text-align: justify;">
An avalanche in Chamonix has claimed the lives of at least nine climbers, the deadliest accident there in years. The avalanche occurred below Mt. Maudit, just hours from the Cosmiques climbing hut at the base of Mont Blanc du Tacul, where my friend Lucas and I overnighted on a <a href="http://mountainexposure.blogspot.com/2012/04/the-french-alps-chamonix-part-one.html" target="_blank">tour</a> this April. It is frightening to imagine so many of your hut mates perishing after you might have sipped wine with them the night before and witnessed their pre-dawn departure, as we had done when we were there. Much worse if they happened to be your friends or family members. Very sad. News stories below:</div>
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<a href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12x/newswire-european-accidents" target="_blank">http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12x/newswire-european-accidents</a></div>
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David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-42837811533197940622012-06-01T07:58:00.004-06:002013-05-23T05:10:56.135-06:00Happy Birthday Steve!<div style="text-align: center;">
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Steve Romeo was as prolific and enthusiastic a skier as any the state of Wyoming or the world has ever known. He was a well respected and admired member of the the Jackson ski community, having been the resident gear guru at Skinny Skis in downtown Jackson for many years and author of a popular backcountry ski blog, TetonAT. Steve possessed an inimitable knowledge of the backcountry, and was well known for his numerous mountaineering accomplishments in the area, including some first descents. He climbed and skied most or all of the biggest lines in the Tetons. While Steve traveled far and wide to remote locations around the world, his favorite place to ski was right here in his own backyard. <i>Randosteve</i>'s colorful and informative blog documented his adventures for the benefit of the local community and beyond, and served as a guide and tick list for my own backcountry pursuits. He was an inspiration to me and I'm sure countless others.<br />
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Steve died, along with his buddy and ski partner, Chris Onufer, in an avalanche on Ranger Peak in the Grand Teton National Park on March 7th, 2012. I happened to be in GTNP that day on another overnight <a href="http://mountainexposure.blogspot.com/2012/03/nez-perce-west-hourglass-couloir-gtnp.html" target="_blank">ski tour</a>, and can remember when, after having just completed it, my elation was shattered by the news of his death on the drive home. Today would have been his 41st birthday. He will be missed. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">(The photo above is of the Ford Couloir on the Grand Teton, with the West Hourglass in the distance, far left. Date and photographer unknown)</span></div>
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Website: <a href="http://www.tetonat.com/" target="_blank">TetonAT.com</a></div>
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David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-53843095480210613332012-05-01T19:54:00.000-06:002012-10-26T11:56:27.314-06:00Teton Trifecta<div style="text-align: justify;">
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The Sliver (photographer unknown)</div>
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Yesterday, my friend Brent Hutcheson and I hiked up Garnet canyon in the Grand Teton National Park to climb and ski the Sliver Couloir, a super aesthetic line splitting the east face of Nez Perce peak, just a few meters shy of 12,000ft. With an eye towards avalanche safety, we decided to camp at the base of the peak the night before, hike an access couloir early in the morning, traverse the Shadow Peak Cirque, and boot up before the sun got a chance to warm up the snowpack. This required a 3:30 am rise and 4:30am departure. After a slow start (I had forgotten my ice axe at camp), and a navigation error (we initially hiked up the wrong couloir), we started our ascent at the base of the Sliver at about 9:00 in the morning. We had hoped to be on our descent by this time, as we were very concerned about the possibility of wet slides due to a recent and rapid warming trend. We got some help from the weather as a front moved in and provided cloud cover and cooler temps. This gave us a margin of safety as we hiked the couloir. We short-roped the entire length of it, since Brent was climbing without boot crampons, and the terrain was very steep and icy. After a grueling three hour climb, we summited at around noon. We were exhausted but excited to ski one of the sickest lines in the Tetons. However, upon looking down the East Hourglass Couloir that fell away immediately from the opposite side of the summit ridge, we decided to alter our plans. The snow looked pristine, and the descent, north-facing and shaded, seemed like a safer alternative considering the time of day. Plus, the couloir was as Brent noted, "one of the coolest lines I've ever seen." <br />
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I dropped in first to check the snow stability while Brent had me on belay. After downclimbing the length of the rope, Brent followed on rappel. By this time the front had moved in at full force, and powerful winds blew snow in our faces. Halfway through the "hanging" section of the couloir (requiring a rappel in <i>and</i> out), I lowered Brent off a rock horn with a Munter hitch to the top of the second rappel. I downclimbed behind him, and we both rapped the lower cliff, using every inch of the 40m rope, slipping off the ends onto a steep patch of snow just below a large chockstone. We strapped in here and rode out the main section of the East and the lower half of the West Hourglass. Unfortunately, the pristine powder we had scoped from above turned out to be extremely wind affected. The skiing was mostly crap (and a bit dangerous) until we reached the West, where we hung a right, and made some big turns in soft bleached flour. We arrived at camp at around 4:00pm, almost 12 hours from start! After initially planning to camp a second night, we decided to leave that evening, due to the deteriorating conditions. <br />
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It was dark. I fell in a frozen lake up to my neck. We got lost. We argued. I became mildly hypothermic. We camped off-trail in driving rain. Brent made camp while I warmed up in a damp sleeping bag. We slept poorly. We found the right trail in the morning, and made it home in time for breakfast. Done. Season over.<br />
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Regretfully, the photos we took are of poor quality. I had forgotten the battery pack for my camera, and Brent's was accidentally set to a slow shutter speed. But here they are (I've included one from the web). I guess we will just have to return here again next year, when conditions are better and cameras are in full operation!</div>
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The Teton Range (Nez Perce is the 3rd peak to the left of the Grand, the tallest among them)</div>
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The "hanging section" of the East Hourglass (photo: Andy Sherpa)</div>
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Brent, halfway up the Sliver<br />
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Brent, near the top<br />
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Looking into the East Hourglass<br />
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Myself, in the entrance<br />
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and just below<br />
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again<br />
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Brent midway through the second rappel<br />
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Myself, clipping in, second rappel<br />
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The lower section of the East Hourglass, with the West just beyond<br />
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David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-19927803732065265222012-04-20T19:49:00.001-06:002013-05-29T10:16:15.535-06:00La Grave: Riding in the Wake of a Giant<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keith Garvey, lowering his client, La Voute Couloir</td></tr>
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My first glance at La Grave, and its trademark peak, La Meije, was from the back seat of a very small and very cramped rental car, driving up a steep and winding valley road from Grenoble, France. We had three bodies crammed into a car designed primarily for two, and three sets of ski gear and clothing jammed into a space designed for only a few bags of groceries. It was one of those sensible, high-mileage hatchbacks that many Europeans favored, and one which three typical American skiers might have a tough time adjusting to. But these were not your average Americans. Indeed, they were not your average skiers. The driver was Keith Garvey, one of the world's best skiers and mountain guides, who had spent a good part of his career living and guiding in the French alps. The front seat passenger was Eric Larsen, an IFMGA certified mountain guide and avalanche forecaster from Telluride, Colorado, and a highly accomplished skier in his own right. The guy in the back seat was me, an aging ski bum from Jackson, Wyoming who rides a splitboard, has a wrecked knee, and was just along for the ride. I did have some experience in the guiding world, having recently completed a course in the American Mountain Guide Association's Ski Guide program in Utah. But I possessed just a cursory knowledge of the technical skill and expertise that the other two had accumulated over the years. I was however, just as avid an explorer and winter enthusiast as my guides. In fact, I had skied some pretty big lines over the years, some of which were unfamiliar even to them. Still, they were incomparable to what we would ski over the next few days.</div>
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"Jesus, there's no snow," I said from the back seat, trying to solicit a response. All I could see from the small window of light from which my position in the car offered were massive, thousand meter walls of rock on either side of the road, with towering waterfalls cascading down one side, and avalanche paths half filled with snow dividing the other. I could barely make out the jagged spire of La Meije, standing sentinel above an impossible web of receding glaciers and open crevasses, with huge cliff bands, and dripping seracs all around. What are we possibly going to ski, I thought to myself. Keith, not quite sure of himself, responded with something like, "Don't worry, there's plenty of snow...we'll find some tomorrow," and then, "I promise, you won't be disappointed." I was more than unconvinced and a little panicked, since I had already committed a week here, and many hundreds of dollars. </div>
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I had only known about La Grave because of my familiarity with one of its most celebrated former residents, Doug Coombs. He had lived and died here, almost six years ago to the day. Coombs was one of the best skiers in the world, having won two World Extreme Skiing Championships in Alaska in 1991 and 1993, and had proven his mettle to countless clients and observers in the years since. And, he was from Jackson. He made himself and Corbet's Couloir famous with his fearless, acrobatic leaps into it, and with his participation in the Jackson Hole Air Force, an underground fraternity of extreme skiers who consistently violated the resort's strict boundary policy. Coombs had pioneered Alaska ski guiding with the founding of Valdez Heli-Ski Guides in 1993, and he later put La Grave on the map with his participation in the Skier's Lodge guiding operation in town. He moved here partly because he had been famously banned from the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort for skiing one too many times 'out of bounds' and partly because he disliked the growing commercialism of Alaska's wild peaks. La Grave offered the best of both worlds: a wild, rugged place with only one lift, no boundaries, and mind-blowing, technically challenging terrain that demanded skill, caution and respect. At the time of his death, he was one of only a handful of American guides working, or qualified to work in the mountains of Europe, and he was considered one of the best. Though I knew very little about him at the time, I remember vividly the day (or the day after) he died. I was vacationing in Jackson for the first time, and was having coffee at the local shop in Wilson, very near my present home. I remember reading the news in the Jackson Hole Daily, and was shocked and saddened to hear about the loss of one of Jackson's own, especially a skier of his reputation. It was however, my first introduction to La Grave, and I have wanted to ski it ever since.</div>
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(To be continued...)</div>
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Eric Larsen, rappelling the entrance to La Voute couloir, La Grave</div>
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La Voute<br />
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Keith, La Voute<br />
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La Voute<br />
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same<br />
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Glacier de la Girose<br />
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Centre Girose<br />
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on belay, Centre Girose<br />
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on rappel, Centre Girose<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_lyDALrAJPmPCu6bLBZrU9sw-oumLhevcu7vPkkGjS34Oqc7X-ZJMTvoFTT6UzNFXyVaSgIhTyYwOZI4u4K7W5Fcy62Z-4s6k5mPPY5NQa4UiiXP5PbHrKxMdZgCe3YOw3_oSpoLZzs/s1600/IMG_1148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_lyDALrAJPmPCu6bLBZrU9sw-oumLhevcu7vPkkGjS34Oqc7X-ZJMTvoFTT6UzNFXyVaSgIhTyYwOZI4u4K7W5Fcy62Z-4s6k5mPPY5NQa4UiiXP5PbHrKxMdZgCe3YOw3_oSpoLZzs/s400/IMG_1148.JPG" width="400" /></a><br />
Short-roping, on belay (photo: Keith Garvey)<br />
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Skiing down to the Glacier des Etancons<br />
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En route to the Promontoire hut, La Meije in the background<br />
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same</div>
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same<br />
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close up<br />
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close up<br />
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The world's most precarious, and scenic, toilet/incinerator (see previous photo)<br />
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Refuge du Promontoire, Glacier des Etancons<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_MXQ-c7xcN_muxP9hUXq_NoeKUDfbe4qDeXcx6K7TG-o_NeY6wKbOhV4iQQ47EBMaKQtBE-13aSxIMfaayyr6p_0axrB9OmqPAUYvbwt72GKOFZSPR4mWpaHqBNyobXAqtqb0eRNsZkY/s1600/IMG_1249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_MXQ-c7xcN_muxP9hUXq_NoeKUDfbe4qDeXcx6K7TG-o_NeY6wKbOhV4iQQ47EBMaKQtBE-13aSxIMfaayyr6p_0axrB9OmqPAUYvbwt72GKOFZSPR4mWpaHqBNyobXAqtqb0eRNsZkY/s400/IMG_1249.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
same<br />
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same<br />
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same<br />
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Three small villages several thousand feet below us (and <i>above)</i> La Grave!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI0EQ0Lkc4vSODr1Mt_2QrStnYBhDo_fdymyDMpdRGECkDv_V0VRZ-zDkMuu3FZ0Oz4bubshZ3zoN8Pmr7plhQ54rwTV2sKXM_vyPu5KcCsOiB5WOQ4kK9OvJuA0xwPX2wR3OtO19OMbA/s1600/IMG_1309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI0EQ0Lkc4vSODr1Mt_2QrStnYBhDo_fdymyDMpdRGECkDv_V0VRZ-zDkMuu3FZ0Oz4bubshZ3zoN8Pmr7plhQ54rwTV2sKXM_vyPu5KcCsOiB5WOQ4kK9OvJuA0xwPX2wR3OtO19OMbA/s400/IMG_1309.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="300" /></a><br />
La Meije<br />
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La Meije, Breche du La Meije (after summiting the col and a 60m rappel)</div>
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Breche du La Meije<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGlaiinlSGA140WG95fv-JFIqePNykqclUx3MzvHKPWC-uQeIFqLxpIqCE_5Lc3ohYtfU3L1PL-NETxS2RVNFGtTHdg4ayLE5pwaPakLrOMmE9X_4lzTXoziKtqYw97pXdmgt2-YVRpcw/s1600/IMG_1306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGlaiinlSGA140WG95fv-JFIqePNykqclUx3MzvHKPWC-uQeIFqLxpIqCE_5Lc3ohYtfU3L1PL-NETxS2RVNFGtTHdg4ayLE5pwaPakLrOMmE9X_4lzTXoziKtqYw97pXdmgt2-YVRpcw/s400/IMG_1306.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="300" /></a><br />
Glacier travel<br />
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Les Enfetchores, a classic La Grave line, dropping nearly 7,000ft to the valley floor!</div>
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Les Enfetchores (notice glacial ice in behind Keith)</div>
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Les Enfetchores (nearly the first time it had been skied all year!)</div>
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Les Enfetchores</div>
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Les Enfetchores</div>
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Keith scoping it out</div>
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Snowboarding on belay</div>
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Glacier skiing</div>
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Skiing <i>through</i> the glacier!</div>
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Crevasse rescue practice (photos: Keith Garvey)</div>
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same</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRpe9CNpcPh39DIxGGpzY15m_PXzCrmsdVOoguTI8kMEvjnvIzwPdd-E5_nSY_zcgHaWtqwdZSr0SWnR5wMkfaflkCFl72zayAOTD2uM-MLxypkrp86gO850jPq3EjtLmUt4ikuWZd-hc/s1600/DSC_6951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRpe9CNpcPh39DIxGGpzY15m_PXzCrmsdVOoguTI8kMEvjnvIzwPdd-E5_nSY_zcgHaWtqwdZSr0SWnR5wMkfaflkCFl72zayAOTD2uM-MLxypkrp86gO850jPq3EjtLmUt4ikuWZd-hc/s400/DSC_6951.JPG" width="265" /></a></div>
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same</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikbLs0zHT-AFwUHL7foq3hyM1GA-aJhuNYgiM26yqNr82VH79rYC78kU4HF7gPAxpMyaucaaExdMf4ELQudoyoWXdIhSIhtimZ5VhyiQLoPT5nCXPH1q49Rqtzy5XpQm1yL8SuvRpQ-7Y/s1600/DSC_6959.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikbLs0zHT-AFwUHL7foq3hyM1GA-aJhuNYgiM26yqNr82VH79rYC78kU4HF7gPAxpMyaucaaExdMf4ELQudoyoWXdIhSIhtimZ5VhyiQLoPT5nCXPH1q49Rqtzy5XpQm1yL8SuvRpQ-7Y/s400/DSC_6959.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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same</div>
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same</div>
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same</div>
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same</div>
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Apres ski, Restaurant 3200, top of Telepherique</div>
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Local Guide Joe Vallone on the guitar</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
same (with some asshole in the background)</div>
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again (minus the asshole)</div>
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Telepherique des Glaciers de la Grave, at dusk</div>
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Keith</div>
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Keith</div>
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cool skis</div>
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top of Telepherique</div>
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marker, Polichinelle Couloir</div>
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Remembering and honoring two close friends</div>
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same</div>
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same</div>
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same</div>
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Le Polichinelle Couloir</div>
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again with the village of La Grave below</div>
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One more angle, looking into the couloir (compare this image with this one taken by Matt Farmer: <a href="http://mountainexposure.blogspot.com/p/other.html" target="_blank">Doug Coombs in Le Polichinelle Couloir</a>)</div>
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Church and cemetery, La Grave</div>
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same</div>
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Gravestones, local cemetery (La Meije in the background)</div>
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same</div>
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Parting Shot</div>
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David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-82471775139130018042012-04-15T10:15:00.000-06:002014-01-31T09:00:04.529-07:00The French Alps: Chamonix, Part One<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">"If you fall here, you </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">will</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"> die."</span><br />
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These words were uttered to me by my guide just before I dropped in on a steep, fifty-something degree section of the Glacier Rond, only a couple hundred meters below the summit of the Aiguille du Midi in the high alpine reaches of Chamonix, France. I had heard them before, and have certainly found myself in similar situations, where the consequences of a fall could potentially be fatal. But here, at this moment, on the precipice of a giant 2,000 foot vertical wall of snow and ice that began below my feet and ended in another thousand foot tumble of seracs, cliff bands, and gaping crevasses, the words seem to take on a more urgent, and very real meaning. After all, it was my guide, Eric Larsen, an IFMGA certified mountain guide and avalanche expert from Telluride, Colorado who had just said this to me. If anyone knew what they were talking about, it was this guy. Yet somehow, in the fog of sheer terror that I was experiencing at the moment, the gravity of this warning was lost, having been mitigated by the path I had just completed on the way here. You see, I had already survived a 'you fall, you die' scenario on the approach to this line. It required an unprotected traverse across a very steep section of hard snow that skirted the edge of a massive 1,000' cliff, and was probably the most terrifying thing I had ever done in my life up to that point. That I had attempted it without protection defied reason, as I was carrying forty meters of mountaineering rope in my pack at the time, a 60cm snow picket, and several easily accessible carabiners, none of which would see the light of this day. I also happened to be in the company of a very experienced belayer, who, after having successfully navigated the traverse himself, merely watched as I followed in his tracks, unmoved that each new step or placement of my axe could be my last. It apparently had not occurred to him that I might need a belay.<i> </i><br />
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</i>The traverse, not more than fifteen meters across, seemed to stretch both time and space. I scratched and pawed at the snow for what felt like hours, struggling to suppress the nauseating sensation of vertigo as I inched my way forward. I pleaded silently with an unknown (and unworshiped) god to allow me to cross <i>just this once</i> without slipping. Somehow I managed to avoid catastrophe. With my legs still trembling, I took a position next to Eric on a narrow spine of semi-soft snow on the far side of the traverse. I was rewarded with a loop of rope (which I immediately clipped to my harness), and a jaw-dropping view of our route, which pin-balled its way to the valley floor for nearly 9,000 vertical feet. I was almost relieved to be here, even as I deliberated with my guide over the perils of what we were about to ski. Despite his admonitions, and the dizzying geometry of the terrain below me, I resolved not to repeat the approach by turning around and going back to where we started. Indeed, there was no going back. I had asked to be guided on this line, and had paid a fair sum of money for the privilege. At least now I was attached to a rope; just a few minutes before, when I felt I needed one most, I was not. One cannot, especially under these circumstances, underestimate the psychological value of being on belay, however tenuous its security may actually be, and even if it involves a mere 7mm of nylon. Yes, I was going to ski the Glacier Rond today, right now, right at this moment...die or not.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">As I skidded down the slope, with an ice axe in one hand and rope in the other, it became very clear that this was not going to be your typical backcountry ski. The snow conditions were in fact terrible: maybe two inches of old snow on a deep layer of absolutely bullet-proof ice. A recent and significant deficit of snowfall had begun to expose the surface of the glacier, and our early morning start had not allowed enough time for the sun to soften what little snow remained. Cloud cover both limited visibility and prevented any potential sunlight from warming the snowpack. The conditions, combined with the ridiculously steep slope angle, made falling a real possibility. I knew that holding an edge here, without the assistance of a rope, would require an extraordinary degree of precision, and complete concentration. I also knew that losing one could result in near certain death.</span><span class="Apple-style-span"> </span></i></span></i><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">Falling here was not an option. </span></i></span></i><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">As I neared the end of the 60 meter belay, futilely attempting to set anchor with my axe, it occurred to me that I, or we, had picked the worst possible day, and the worst time of day, to navigate one of the most challenging lines offered in Chamonix, among the most dangerous and technically demanding mountain areas in the ski world. On average, more people die here, in this valley, in ski related accidents in a single year than in all of the United States.</span></i></span></i></div>
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This was my third trip to Chamonix in four years. I had lived and snowboarded in Jackson, Wyoming for the last five and made a promise to myself after my first visit to come here at least once a year*. This trip however would mark the first time I would hire a guide. I had hit some serious lines already in Chamonix, riding sometimes with locals but often on my own, and I had reached a point on my risk tolerance curve where pushing the envelope any further, without the assistance of a guide, could be suicidal. Chamonix is not a place for cliff jumps, big powder turns, or high fives. In fact, if you’re skiing <i>off-piste</i>, it seldom can be described as fun. It is really more about pushing the limits of alpine travel, and pushing the limits of human endurance, both physically and mentally. This is a place where all one's previous training and experience, in steep skiing, glacier travel, avalanche avoidance, rock climbing, ice climbing, and navigation, comes together in one environment. You don’t come to Chamonix in the winter to ski necessarily, you come here to move <i>through</i> the mountains, anticipating, avoiding, and negotiating hazards, known and unknown. In fact, you are cheating death almost every time you step off the lift here. The mountains and glaciers that make up the Mont Blanc massif are in such a state of flux, especially in this era of global warming, that something could come crashing down or break apart below you at any time, and oftentimes (too often anyway) it does. For the off-piste or out-of-bounds skier or snowboarder, any trip to Chamonix is considered a success if you are still in one piece by the time your train or flight departs for home. <i>(*2010/11 had been a very bad season in terms of snowfall for much of the Alps, and I chose to stay in the Tetons for what turned out to be an epic winter.)</i><br />
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Of course there are many who come to Chamonix to ride the valley's 40+ lifts and delight in the typical ski vacation; it is evident in the number of families and tourists who inundate the village every weekend and fill up its many hotels, chalets, and restaurants, and in the maddening hour-long queues formed on the Grand Montets in the height of the season. But there are better alternatives in the Alps for these type of skiers. In fact, if you look around, it's hard to believe that anyone could have envisioned building ski lifts here; the terrain is just not conducive to recreational skiing. Most north-facing aspects are glaciated or too steep to hold snow, and the south-facing aspects rarely see snow to the valley, which at 1,000 meters, is quite low in elevation. The resort offers at least six distinct ski areas, but they are not well connected, and each base area requires a long bus or lift ride to access. No, it is not the quantity or quality of skiing in Chamonix that attracts such crowds. They are drawn here mostly by its unqualified beauty, its history, and its ease of access*, but also by its fearsome reputation. (*Geneva's international airport is only an hour's drive away, and rail connections are abundant.)<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span">Chamonix has a long alpine tradition. It is considered the birthplace of mountaineering. Climbers come from all over the world to scale its many peaks, make holds in its near perfect granite, and stand atop its jagged spires, and they have been doing so for almost 200 years. D</span>ue to its extensively glaciated typography, relatively low altitude, and mild summer climate<span class="Apple-style-span">, it has become an important training ground for mountaineers attempting the highest summits on earth. </span>Summer can bring throngs of tourists and day-hikers, including a few who inevitably find themselves in need of rescue. The PGHM, the local mountain rescue service, is not only the best and fully equipped in the world, but also the busiest. Indeed, it is a rare moment in Chamonix when the whir of a PGHM rescue helicopter is not heard echoing through the valley. In winter, ski mountaineers come here to tackle the same craggy peaks that attract warm weather alpinists, climbing sometimes for days just to ski one perilous line. Often, they share the same routes as alpine climbers, ice climbers, and paragliders. For these intrepid adventurers, it is reassuring to know that safety, if weather and circumstance permit, is only a phone call away.<br />
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</span> <span class="Apple-style-span">Unfortunately, more than a few who have come to Chamonix over the years, to climb, ski, or simply hike, have also perished here, as the dangers are copious and ever-present. The seasoned professionals of the PGHM are well trained and highly capable, but they are not miracle workers. While many fatalities are a result of inexperience or neglect, an equal number of them are shared by expert mountaineers and professional guides, including some who were (</span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">or have since </span><span class="Apple-style-span">become)</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span"> quite famous</span><span class="Apple-style-span">. Despite this, and perhaps even because of it, Chamonix has become a mecca not only for recreational skiers and snowboarders, but for those who seek the highest, steepest, and most technical lines available in the alpine world. Indeed, there are few places on the globe that can compare. The Himalayas, for example, are far too remote and too high in elevation for recreational skiing, even ski mountaineering, and the Andes, if they are snowy at all, are too prone to wind and weather. Only Alaska or British Columbia can evoke similar comparisons in terms of slope angle, snow depth, and quality of terrain. But alas, there are no ski lifts in the Chugach or Monashees, not enough hours of winter daylight, and very few airports.</span><br />
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Mont Blanc, at 4,810m (15,782ft), western Europe’s highest mountain, has an intense magnetism about it, and thanks to exceptional infrastructure, is easily accessible. Lifts that were constructed decades ago, in the most inconceivable configurations of engineering and height, allow even novices a chance at summiting in little more than a day. Mt. Blanc, or Monte Bianco, as the Italians call it, is the highest and most prominent of dozens of peaks that make up the Mont Blanc Massif, a vast mountain range which stretches across three countries. Its eternally icy summit marks the border between Italy and France, and towers more than 3,536m (11,602ft) over the second longest automobile tunnel in the world, which serves as an important link between the two countries. It is an incredibly beautiful mountain, and every time I visit, I go to the same cafe patio (although it can be viewed from just about anywhere in town), to sit, sip coffee, and simply stare at it for hours, surveying its endless contours, and contemplating all the potential routes to climb or ski. That it would require a lifetime to conquer them all has not deterred people from trying. Indeed, while many have failed, tens of thousands summit Mt. Blanc every year. A precocious few manage to ski from its highest point. Only the most daring descend routes that were once considered unskiable. Yet all who venture in these mountains revel in its grandeur. If you are a passionate skier or climber at any level, and if the precedent set by millions before you is any indication, you will want to come to Chamonix at least once before you die.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Mont Blanc, the Aiguille du Midi, and the Vallee Blanche (photo: David Hewett)</span></div>
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Ski mountaineers come here to ride one lift principally, and that is the Aiguille du Midi, one of the highest and longest cable cars in the world, serving the biggest lift-accessible skiing on earth. Here, unlike most other ski areas (including Jackson and Telluride, where the terrain can often demand such gear), it is unusual not to have a harness already rigged and secured around your waist, or at least an ice axe strapped to your pack. If you ride the Aiguille du Midi without so much as a backpack, you are looked upon with a certain amount of suspicion or disdain, or you are dismissed as a return-ticket <i>gaper</i> who is just along for the ride. The Téléphérique de l'Aiguille du Midi, or simply the <i>Midi</i>, as it is called by my American friends, is actually two cable cars. The first one takes you up to the Plan de l'Aiguille at 2317m, and the second directly, unsupported by towers, up to the final station just below the summit, to an altitude of 3777m. From there you can take an elevator to the actual summit at 3842m, though I have never done this. Most everyone I know passes through two tunnels, bored through solid rock some 60 years ago, and over a pedestrian bridge suspended several hundred feet high to access a knife-edged ridge (known as the East Ridge), that, after negotiating its steep and often icy steps, which fall away hundreds and thousands of feet on either side, deposits you finally on a relatively level spot where you can safely put on your ski gear. Most people, if they are smart, rope up here, or are at least tethered to the hand lines with a sling and carabiner. It is said that at least one person every year misses a step, and falls, without interruption, almost 5,000 feet to his or her death!<br />
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It was here, at the base of this mountain, and at this lift station, that I would meet Eric and the other members of my touring party: guide and trip leader Keith Garvey, and three Australians, Tony, James, and Matthew. All, except Eric, had arrived in Chamonix the previous day, less than 36 hours after completing a big tour in La Grave, France. Despite their recent travels, they looked healthy and rested. All were properly geared and eager to begin the tour. I was surprised and somewhat relieved to learn the background and ages of the group. Eric and Keith were in their late 30s. The Australians, two doctors and one lawyer, were in their early to mid 50's. At 42, I was not the youngest member of the party, but I was happy not to be the oldest. I had made all the arrangements for this trip over the internet, and feared that I might find myself in the company of more experienced and/or more youthful alpinists, whom I would have difficulty keeping up with. As it turned out, this concern proved mostly unwarranted, despite my being the only splitboarder in a group of motivated, well-equiped, and efficient skiers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisP5tixek-6uDllJ4PJUYhwtKQBScGrhGKM_JKLOtwHmH05Y7tvvOwDnb5DIOA1_6dNcUDNBTvuab17O08vv4ZRanJsDIY_CiG_z2rPmi9sOqgwQcphP3KExkmP4BsO-QadHnDNd2eA3I/s1600/CIMG1209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisP5tixek-6uDllJ4PJUYhwtKQBScGrhGKM_JKLOtwHmH05Y7tvvOwDnb5DIOA1_6dNcUDNBTvuab17O08vv4ZRanJsDIY_CiG_z2rPmi9sOqgwQcphP3KExkmP4BsO-QadHnDNd2eA3I/s320/CIMG1209.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a>It was 8:30 am, and the first tram had already departed. Despite less than optimal conditions, it was filled to capacity with fifty or more passengers getting an early start on the day's objectives. Some had planned more extreme descents, but most of the passengers would ski the standard (and guided) Vallee Blanche tour, following a wide, low-angle track called the 'Normal Route', which attempts to avoid the most dangerous areas as much as possible. Yet even here, accidents can occur. A Canadian guide who had fallen on this route just two weeks before, as a snow bridge he was standing on collapsed suddenly, died not of injuries sustained in the fall, but of asphyxiation. He was buried in snow after the bridge had collapsed around him and was unable to breathe as a result. By the time they were able to retrieve him from the depths of the crevasse, only minutes later, he was dead. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">(Photo above: <i>The East Ridge,</i> David Hewett)</span><br />
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We were told this story by our guides, Keith and Eric, both IFMGA certified mountain guides, both from Colorado, each with extensive alpine experience in the French Alps and North America, including Alaska. This would be just one of many stories of death and debilitation that they would tell us about during the trip. Discouragingly, most of them had occurred here in Chamonix valley. Encouragingly, they tended to involve casualties of French or British origin, rather than American or Australian. Of course, as much as we didn't want to admit it, much of the disparity has to do with our lack of statistical representation here. Some of the stories we had heard before, and some we would hear again, as they are quite popular among the residents here. Everyone in Chamonix, it seems, shares this morbid fascination with mountain accidents, and takes every opportunity to recount the details of any misfortune visited upon their fellow adventurers. While disconcerting, it is an important and worthwhile practice, as Keith pointed out, serving to remind us both of the objective dangers lurking about, and also to learn from other people's mistakes.<br />
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The French, it is worth noting, have adopted an attitude towards life most commonly referred to as <i>Joie de Vivre</i>, or 'joy of living'<i> </i>(<i>a French phrase often used in English to express a cheerful enjoyment of life -</i>Wikipedia<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">)</span></i>. This philosophy, when applied to leisure endeavors, tends to minimize the importance of safety. Basic precautions might be taken to preserve one's welfare, but not so much as to hinder their enjoyment. In the United States, Americans take a much more conservative approach to managing risk, sometimes choosing to avoid a dangerous activity altogether. This is a level of caution rarely applied in the French Alps, particularly with regard to the local population. To hear another language spoken in the alpine here that is not either French or Swedish (two populations producing skiers generally regarded as the best in the world) is exception rather than rule. Because of its universal character, English, even if it is broken, is quite prevalent in this international town. But rarely does one encounter English-speaking tourists skiing out-of-bounds<i> </i>in Chamonix, certainly not without a guide. Most Americans who venture off-piste without one, do so by mistake, as it is easy to become disoriented here.<br />
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France also lacks the litigious culture that exists in the U.S., where almost any potentially harmful activity is checked by threat of civil or criminal action. There is a sense of personal responsibility that exists among the populations of Western Europe that is distinct from American sensibilities, but which is particularly evident among the French. It is an attitude that is often characterized as blithe or indolent, even reckless. But it is misinterpreted. The French are simply more concerned with living life to the fullest than they are about self-preservation, and too self-reliant to assign blame when things go wrong. Both of these phenomenons help to explain the relative absence of ski patrollers, avalanche hazard postings, protective fencing, warning flags, even helmets in Chamonix. As a French acquantaince once said to me, "When you die, you won't know it and you won't feel it, because you're already dead," and "no one will miss you when you're dead, or if they do, they will only miss you for a few weeks or months, and then they will mostly forget about you."<br />
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It is no accident that ski mountaineering legends Patrick Vallencant (FRA), Jean-Marc Boivin (FRA), Anselme Baud (FRA), Xavier de la Rue (FRA), Stefano De Benedetti (Italian), and Andreas Fransson (Swedish), pioneers in the world of <i>extreme</i> sports, all made their homes here at one point or another. Indeed the vast majority of first descents in the Graian Alps*, and elsewhere can be attributed to just these six individuals. For the resident alpinists and ski mountaineers of Chamonix, almost anything goes. If there is something that hasn't already been skied or climbed in the mountains surrounding this valley, it may not be humanly possible to do so. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><i>(</i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>*the Graian Alps include the Mt. Blanc region, the western Valais in Switzerland, and the Aosta Valley in Italy.)</i></span></span><br />
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Our original plan was to ascend and ski Mt. Blanc, but the conditions at the time made the project too dangerous to attempt. Our guides were American, not French. While Chamonix enjoyed record snowfall early in the season, it had not snowed significantly here in many weeks. And, because of persistent sun and summer-like temperatures during the day, icy conditions prevailed; not ideal for skiing above and through legions of man-eating crevasses. The potential for falling rock and ice presented further challenges. Our alternate plan was to tour the Italian side of the Vallee Blanche, including an ascent of the Glacier des Periades and the Southwest couloir, a rappel down from the Breche Puiseux and onto the Glacier du Mont Mallet, below the towering, near-vertical, 1000m north face of the Grandes Jorasses. We were to continue on to the unguarded Couvercle hut, spend the night, and make plans for another excursion on the Aguille Verte the following day. Then, we were to return via the Mer de Glace, take the Mont Envers train back to the village, and end our tour with beers at Chambre Neuf, a bar very near the train station and a favorite meeting place for mountaineers and tourists alike.<br />
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I had come to Chamonix to ride bigger, more prominent lines, but the idea of touring amongst some of the highest peaks in Europe, and skiing at least four different glaciers was too appealing to pass on. In any case, most of the other lines were no longer 'in' (meaning in condition, or skiable), and our guide fees were of the nonrefundable variety, weather and snow conditions being the ultimate determinate of any ski tour. With April just around the corner, and a limited number of available ski partners, there was really no other option. Furthermore, the weather was just beautiful, views for miles around; and there is no better place for views in the Alps than in the Vallee Blanche. By the time the second tram had delivered us to the summit station of the Midi, with Keith pointing across the valley to indicate our intended route, it became clear to everyone, including myself, that while forgoing Mt. Blanc for safer objectives was disappointing, this tour would offer much more than a consolation prize.<br />
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Indeed it did not dissapoint. We stuck to our itinerary for the most part, but had to alter our plans for the Aiguille Verte, due to a lack of snow. We hiked and skied several couloirs; climbed in, through, and over a large crevasse. We navigated several glaciers and crevasse fields, enjoyed incredible views, and stayed the night in a climbing hut with no heat or light, where I slept barefoot in a failed attempt to dry my only pair of socks. Keith and Eric made sure we ate well and had plenty of water, as they made themselves responsible for dinner and breakfast, and spent hours melting snow for our Nalgene bottles. We had perfect weather (maybe too perfect considering our various degrees of sunburn), skied some decent snow, shared duty in breaking trail, and enjoyed each other's company. The Australians, while not very good skiers, were strong climbers, obviously seasoned outdoorsmen, and fearless explorers. This was their second multi-day tour in less than a week, and yet the smiles on their faces at the end of each day concealed all measure of exhaustion. We had all agreed: it was an incredible journey in what is surely one of the most beautiful alpine environments on the planet.<br />
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Still, I was eager to ski more challenging terrain. After all, it was the primary reason I had signed on for this trip. As we contemplated our next adventure over dinner and drinks that evening, it became apparent that if I wanted to ride steeper lines, the group would have to separate. So while Keith and the Australians optioned for another, relatively low consequence tour (in <i>Le Tour</i> of all places), I tried to convince Eric, with the help of several pints of Belgian Blonde, to guide me on one of Chamonix's more notorious off-piste routes below the Aiguille du Midi. It was a tough sell, given the subpar conditions. But, with Keith's approval, he acquiesced, and we agreed to meet in front of the tram first thing in the morning.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Looking down the Glacier Rond, just past the traverse (photographer unknown)</span></div>
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Which is how I found myself on this frozen, windswept, fifty-something degree face of the Glacier Rond, literally and figuratively at the end of my rope. I stopped, not sure quite what to do or what direction to go (other than down) and looked for instructions from Eric, who was barely visible tending my belay some sixty meters above. He yelled them between bursts of spindrift, directing me to set anchor with my axe, unclip from the rope when advised, and wait for him to ski down to me. I tried vainly to jam the shaft of my ice axe in the snow for an anchor, but was unable to penetrate the ice more than a few inches. I conceded to using the head and pick of the axe in self-belay mode, trusting that my snowboard edge would hold, if only for a few minutes longer. Terrified, I waited anxiously for my guide and partner. <br />
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I was confused as to why Eric had asked me to wait, since if he were to fall anywhere close to me, it would likely be the end of both of us. Had he intended to set up another belay? I couldn't imagine; at least not here. It seemed to me that <i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">building a reliable anchor here from which to belay would not only be formidable, but a dangerous, and time-consuming task (I had forgotten that we were carrying at least three ice screws between us). </span></i></span></i>Perhaps he had sensed my unease, and assumed his mere proximity might allay my anxieties. Anticipating and adapting to the hidden fears and psychological nuances of your client is one of the biggest challenges in professional guiding. While it can be easy to decipher a client's confidence or skill level, one can never be sure of the true measure of that person's fatigue or panic. In any case, I don't think Eric was planning to fall. He was, after all, my guide. Falling was not in his contract.</div>
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Regardless of his intent, I didn't wait long. I couldn't wait. My feet and especially my toes, were beginning to numb from the cold, as I had been on my toe edge, in the snow and ice, for nearly half an hour now. I needed to move, and I needed to make a turn, if anything to get the blood flowing back through the vessels in my extremities. I signaled my intentions to Eric and began to unclip my carabiner from the rope. Just as I did this, I slipped. A gut-wrenching panic immediately enveloped me. My lungs reflexively gasped for air, and my pulse rate soared, anticipating calamity. Somewhere in the recesses of my brain, Eric's voice reverberated: <i>If you fall here..</i><i>. </i>But just as quickly as I had lost my balance, I regained it, as the rope pulled tight against my chest. I could feel my climbing harness constrict, tightening its life-saving grip around my pelvis. Mercifully, I was still on belay. As I was attempting to unlock the screw gate of my carabiner, I neglected to pay attention to the orientation of my feet. With one slight pivot, the edge of my board became dislodged from the snow and skipped down a meter or so from where I was anchored. Unnerved and slightly embarrassed, I took a deep breath, repositioned my axe (which was now permanently affixed to my harness) and took a moment to collect myself. After the surge of adrenaline had passed and I felt securely positioned, I carefully unclipped from the rope, and yelled up to Eric, "Off-belay!"<br />
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I etch-a-sketched another sixty meters or so before finally committing to a turn (the first steep turns of my trip really) in some semi-soft snow towards the right flank of the hanging glacier. I moved with extreme caution, leaning forward into the fall line with knees bent, judiciously initiating each turn, and edging firmly throughout to maintain my speed and balance. I gripped the ice axe tightly in my right hand, leaving my left hand free but ready to engage the adze in a self-arrest position at any moment. While avalanche danger is ever present in the French Alps, the melt/freeze cycles of the past few weeks had stabilized the snowpack, and warnings were at their lowest level on the European Danger Scale. And while slides have claimed many lives in Chamonix, including here on the Rond*, the threat of avalanche was the furthest thing from my mind. My primary focus, besides maintaining my wits, was to keep as much of the thin rail of metal that formed the edge of my board in contact with the snow. This was critical, since there was almost nothing between me and the glacier's abrupt and imminently lethal terminus (see photo below) that could break my fall. <i>(*In February, 1996, Trevor Petersen, one of the most accomplished skiers in the world at the time, died in an avalanche here in the exit couloir of this line.)</i><br />
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After a few turns, I regained my instincts and felt a little more in control of my destiny. When I realized my lungs were still converting oxygen, despite my hyperventilating, and that I hadn't actually fallen, I became much more confident in my abilities. I made about a dozen ‘powder’ turns in some softer snow before I reached the berschrund, where things firmed up again. A berschrund is a crevasse that forms where moving glacial ice pulls away from the stagnant ice above it, and typically marks the beginning or edge of the actual glacier. It can sometimes be as shallow and benign as a crack in a sidewalk, requiring a simple hop to clear it. But more often it is a dark and deadly abyss that, because of its potential to cause catastrophic injury to those who fall into it, and the extreme temperatures that reside constant in its depths, could easily become one's permanent resting place. Since I didn't have time to determine which variety I was dealing with, I positioned myself above the narrowest gap I could find. There was only a meter or two separating me from relative safety, but considering the likely consequences of not landing it, it might as well have been a thirty foot air over a pit of fire. After a harrowing but successful jump, and a short traverse to the left towards the ridge, I met Eric at the entrance to the Cunningham couloir, our next pitch, and a sublime view of the Bossons Glacier and Chamonix valley emerged into my line of site.<br />
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<a href="http://cedricbernardini.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/the-window-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://cedricbernardini.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/the-window-7.jpg" height="320" width="252" /></a>Before this moment my vision had been limited to the task at hand, as I focused intently on every move. This had the effect of blurring the periphery, as if I were severely myopic and peering through a pair of narrow eyeglasses. I stopped a few meters above Eric, and scanned my surroundings for the first time, awestruck by the view. I quickly realized where I was, and why I had subjected myself to such extreme exposure. The adrenaline that had threatened to paralyze me just a few minutes ago gave way to a rush of endorphins, and I felt a sense of exhiliration. My sensory perception suddenly became sharper, more acute, and my focus broadened. Fear had been replaced by wonder. <br />
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I looked up to my right to see the footbridge above the Passerelle Couloir more than two thousand feet higher than where we stood, and where we had crossed anxiously little more than an hour ago. I looked straight down and could see the Glacier Rond fall from the face of the mountain into what seemed like an empty void (the term <i>hanging glacier</i> lost all ambiguity here). I looked out and beyond, to the far side of the valley towards Lake Geneva, obscured now by the ragged, snow-capped mountains and undulating ridgelines of the Haute Savoie. I looked further to the left and down the Cunningham, another fifty degree chute anchored on both sides by walls of rock that terminated in a tangle of huge crevasses, endless crevasses, that was the Bossons Glacier. Yet somehow, this no longer represented eminent danger to me. After some sideslipping, I paused at the edge of the couloir, securing myself again with my axe, and marveled at the beauty of it all. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">(Photo: <i>The Ridge,</i> Cedric Bernardini)</span><br />
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"Beautiful, isn't it?" Eric asked rhetorically. Eric is a quiet man, but in a strong and self-confident way, with incredible stamina and nerves of steel. He lives in Telluride, Colorado and works for the resort there, both as a guide and in avalanche control. He is married, with no kids. "No time for kids," he had said to me. He spends his summers living in a cabin at the edge of Jenny Lake in the Grand Teton National Park outside Jackson, where he guides clients up the Grand Teton for Exum Guides, the most prestigious guiding operation in the States. He also spends time in La Grave and Alaska, guiding clients there as well. He was no stranger to this type of terrain. Telluride has lines similar to this, and I have ridden some of them, but none of them approached this scale, nor did they come with this spectacular scenery. Eric looked up past me at the massif that loomed over us and said, "if I could take one piece of Chamonix back with me, it would be this right here."<br />
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Eric dropped in first and reported that conditions had improved only slightly. We would be skiing 'coral reef' for at least another 2,000 feet (coral reef is a euphemism for re-frozen isothermic snow, or slush, that can be as hard and sharp as its name implies). He asked if I wanted a belay. The couloir was as steep as what we had just skied, and there were many hazards that lay ahead. Yet, in my mind, we had just completed the most dangerous part of the tour, and that recognition, however distorted, served as an important and effective motivator. " I think I'm good," I said. I declined and rode on.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span">We still had several thousand verticle feet of steep terrain to go, another berschrund, and a huge and heavily crevassed glacier to cross. And there would be a long, grueling hike back to the mid-station, since the snow at the lower elevations was melted out. But here, on this ridge, with my new best friend Eric Larsen five meters below me, his blue jacket and pale green pack juxtaposed against an all-white backdrop of Mt. Blanc, the Dome du Gouter, the Aiguille du Gouter, and the Bossons Glacier, contrasted again by the snow-free village of Chamonix thousands of feet below, it didn’t matter. Indeed, nothing else in the world mattered. With my attention focused entirely on the present, everything else, past and future, seemed remote, incidental. </span>Worries fell away. Life gained new perspective. The ordinary distractions of routine and obligation became sidelined, spectators to the moment. <span class="Apple-style-span">Finances, debts, troubled relationships, personal anxieties, illness, career; they all took a back seat on this ride. </span><span class="Apple-style-span">All the sacrifice, in time, expense, and effort, required to arrive at this very spot seemed inconsequential to the magnitude of the view before me. I could not think of any other place I would rather be.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Glacier Rond, including berschrund, in summer (photographer unknown)</span></div>
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We would complete the tour without incident, arriving at the mid-station some four hours after we had started. Since it was too early to quit, we both agreed that a quick lap on the Vallee Blanche would be a fitting end to a beautiful day. After negotiating the East Ridge once again, we decided to ski the Gran Envers du Plan, the most difficult of the Vallee's descent variations, and perhaps the most scenic. Eric led the way. By late afternoon we were in town sipping beers on the patio at Chambre Neuf, packs off and boots up, utterly exhausted. We had only managed to ski two named runs, yet it took us the entire day. Such is the nature of skiing and snowboarding off-piste in Chamonix. <br />
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No one is solving the world's problems up here, but neither are we contributing to them. Still, there is much to learn in this environment, and much we can share with the rest of the world. Nature reigns supreme, for one. The earth is small, but vast. Humans, while prodigious in number, are infinitesimal in this landscape. The shapes in this rock, and the ice surrounding it, represent millions of years of geologic history. In the grand scheme, we are merely overnight guests. However, our short stay has had tremendous impact, as the effects of industry and trade wreak havoc on the climate and pollute our wild spaces. The Bossons Glacier, for example, has retreated more than 1200m since climbers began exploring this area. It also serves as a graveyard for not one, but two airliners that crashed here in 1950 and again in 1966. The Mer du Glace, the largest of several glaciers that make up the Vallee Blanche, has lost nearly 30% of its volume just in the last century. Avalanches occur here with alarming frequency. Urban sprawl in the valley is having devastating effects on water supply, on traffic, on infrastructure, and on historic and scenic preservation.<br />
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The threat is real, the effects are palpable. But the view is still grand. I can't predict what fate awaits places like Chamonix, but I can assure you, no amount of money in the world, no drug, no retirement portfolio, no peer review, no shiny new car, no consumer product can replicate the feeling one gets from being here, on a line like this, where few have been before, where only a pair of skis or a snowboard and a bit of rope provides access. It is a feeling, a mental state, that cannot be sufficiently described in words. It can only be achieved through personal experience. And that experience can only be achieved by accepting a certain amount of risk, sometimes more than you bargained for. As Bill Briggs, the ski-mountaineering legend from Jackson likes to say, "without risk, there is no adventure."<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: The Aguille du Midi, Luca Pandolfi</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">At left is a photo of the upper section of the Aguille du Midi. The red line follows the Passerelle and West couloirs below the tram station, which I did not ski. The Glacier Rond is the face just to the right of that, and the Cunningham is directly below. The traverse is the thin line of snow to the right and above the entry. You can see the Cosmiques couloir to the right on the same face, with the narrow entry, eventually merging into the lower Cunningham. Another variation of this couloir drops you directly onto a more crevassed section of the Bossons Glacier. This is the route I would take several days later. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The Cosmiques hut is barely visible as a black dot just a few hundred meters right of the entrance to its namesake couloir.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">EPILOGUE: On every trip in the backcountry, you learn something new or reinforce existing protocols. One hopes that is the case, anyway. I thought I had learned some good lessons about ambition and timing, or at least weather prediction; and yet, despite my best intentions on this trip, this would not be my last, nor my closest dance with death. (Cover photo: Ascending the Southwest Couloir, on belay, Breche Puiseux, David Hewett)</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"></span>(To be continued...)</div>
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The 'traverse', on the approach the Glacier Rond, lower right (Cosmiques, Bossons Glacier in the background)</div>
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On the entry, Cosmiques Couloir, adjacent to the Glacier Rond</div>
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Brevent Cable Car, from the top, Chamonix</div>
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Old cable car station, Aguille du Plan, Chamonix, still almost 5,000' from the valley, at dusk! (story forthcoming...)</div>
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Cosmiques Couloir, Chamonix, two days after I dropped it (Bossons Glacier, 5000' below, Chamonix village, at least 9000' below!) </div>
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Below the Aguille du Midi, Cosmiques hut in the distance; hiker in foreground, tent just visible below rock outcropping, Mt.Blanc, another 5000' higher, obscured by clouds</div>
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Looking into the Passerelle Couloir, Glacier Rond is visible just behind the last bit of rock on the left wall, Aguille du Midi, Chamonix</div>
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The entrance to the Passerelle, 300' below the platform!<br />
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Another day, another view, this time with a couple of skiers<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcd8sy_XamJfMm5aTjUNWCWBpw5Cy_9DbeRYb5HzroMaOqNCEuKY0tINVgLtf02AKpUngjECEc_sBBirf2Bit7Fkzu297RJXZ9yyeW3cwr3esVy9vRqyz1QyU2eTUHgJmCnF1uWR_9ld4/s1600/IMG_1658.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcd8sy_XamJfMm5aTjUNWCWBpw5Cy_9DbeRYb5HzroMaOqNCEuKY0tINVgLtf02AKpUngjECEc_sBBirf2Bit7Fkzu297RJXZ9yyeW3cwr3esVy9vRqyz1QyU2eTUHgJmCnF1uWR_9ld4/s400/IMG_1658.JPG" height="400" width="400" /></a><br />
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Another view of the East Ridge</div>
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Myself, Vallee Blanche in the background (cable car barely visible on the far right)</div>
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Sunset, Les Bossons Glacier and Chamonix Valley (Abri Simond climbing hut far right), as seen from the Cosmiques hut<br />
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The Aguille du Midi, Dawn<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb1_arkCPs-BlnUf_0fNwjpqy9ON1-8oxIkV9F78jnLujmsKNHbIMwhGOiSPHF2G9oChJ2E2nWeMo3aRLnCRel3MG-IzCVkUUd6GwJleI6CDZbCTqKxDJunA9FuToJYYkIpbM3pUCGaAU/s1600/DSC_7244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb1_arkCPs-BlnUf_0fNwjpqy9ON1-8oxIkV9F78jnLujmsKNHbIMwhGOiSPHF2G9oChJ2E2nWeMo3aRLnCRel3MG-IzCVkUUd6GwJleI6CDZbCTqKxDJunA9FuToJYYkIpbM3pUCGaAU/s400/DSC_7244.JPG" height="265" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a><br />
same<br />
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Mt. Blanc du Tacul (Mt. Blanc is several thousand feet higher, but not visible this picture)<br />
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Cosmiques hut, 11,854 ft<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiykyUYm3xFKYkCU6SPYtsCnMPpvLoTkvDOvVgZrFFduKTaTZ9sKDDHCdeIhspz-1IGp5LEggxaLTK3AZfBUoQFB-NHQ_05YJcFegPT5jLzn7_boTl_a3k_sIVQl8nOt_u7UDxYHV1NS9w/s1600/DSC_7246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiykyUYm3xFKYkCU6SPYtsCnMPpvLoTkvDOvVgZrFFduKTaTZ9sKDDHCdeIhspz-1IGp5LEggxaLTK3AZfBUoQFB-NHQ_05YJcFegPT5jLzn7_boTl_a3k_sIVQl8nOt_u7UDxYHV1NS9w/s400/DSC_7246.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
Lucas Cowart, my first client<br />
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David Hewett, Guide de Haute Montagne<br />
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Cosmiques hut<br />
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same<br />
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Michael and Ellen, local climbers<br />
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Cosmiques hut, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, North ridge of Mt. Blanc<br />
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Italian side of Vallee Blanche, Tour du Ronde on the right, helicopter and two skiing parties just visible<br />
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Seracs, Glacier du Geant<br />
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Uber mountaineer Lucas Cowart looking over the menu at the Requin hut, 11,227 ft<br />
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Touring party, Glacier du Geant, Tour du Ronde (for scale: note the gondolas in the background; the north face of the Tour du Ronde, a popular climbing route, is 400m high!)<br />
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same dude, same spot<br />
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The rookie guide, surveying the route<br />
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Glacier du Geant<br />
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Glacier du Geant<br />
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Glacier du Geant<br />
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Glacier du Geant<br />
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Glacier du Geant, Dent du Geant in the distance</div>
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Glacier du Geant, Glacier des Periades in background (I climbed this glacier and the ridge behind it two weeks prior)<br />
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Lucas, right before he fell in<br />
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Lucas, post rescue<br />
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Lucas, waking from his nightmare<br />
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Crevasse field, Mer du Glace, with Glacier du Lechaud in the distance<br />
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Lucas, with the Aguille Verte massif in the distance</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"> (still working on my editing skills):</span></div>
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Paragliders, Grand Envers du Plan just behind the ridge<br />
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Eric Larsen<br />
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Vallee Blanche; Dent du Geant in the background<br />
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Vallee Blanche; Aguille Verte, Petit Dru in the background<br />
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Glacier des Periades<br />
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Glacier des Periades<br />
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Glacier des Periades<br />
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Glacier des Periades, Glacier du Geant, Aguille du Midi, Vallee Blanche<br />
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same<br />
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Southwest Couloir, Glacier des Periades<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE3LoFc3B6X_JXg0oGVIumeo6Rw0yrjq2UIpwmIg3oR5tJzkFZtUgANk7Xly_42OeBQACIyjj7ruZCoL3dlHC8yzPDsAATyjdXfdm0G8uk1WeQcJ51bO3Rqcv3UOkrAYHXtjYNxyZvC-k/s1600/IMG_0796.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE3LoFc3B6X_JXg0oGVIumeo6Rw0yrjq2UIpwmIg3oR5tJzkFZtUgANk7Xly_42OeBQACIyjj7ruZCoL3dlHC8yzPDsAATyjdXfdm0G8uk1WeQcJ51bO3Rqcv3UOkrAYHXtjYNxyZvC-k/s400/IMG_0796.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
The Aussies, short-roping, on belay<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUafU77qDKizDEdN5QqnpYOIdYAOhUikhPIHzXzk7JOMPu9_uT9izgbOJ6wRxkd3P0b5lgauPowN3MIHV97vRFi5sM2BD07KEZd6ZZtSfCHiTnvEysbTOmQjMIKWDH7rB_qisnKdNWBxY/s1600/IMG_0805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUafU77qDKizDEdN5QqnpYOIdYAOhUikhPIHzXzk7JOMPu9_uT9izgbOJ6wRxkd3P0b5lgauPowN3MIHV97vRFi5sM2BD07KEZd6ZZtSfCHiTnvEysbTOmQjMIKWDH7rB_qisnKdNWBxY/s400/IMG_0805.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHJ7-sxVbOe5560XzezStduUEH_59qkJfRuwdWX9Ooa-lsN-mKNLMMnnJFAt81WKhBXGVsT0gkoeAV3NibM7v3SokaNL3yLzN6x5z03Yc-Dx_UkoBHyppWd5Ypt7eejwywyFowTW_Gth4/s1600/IMG_0806.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHJ7-sxVbOe5560XzezStduUEH_59qkJfRuwdWX9Ooa-lsN-mKNLMMnnJFAt81WKhBXGVsT0gkoeAV3NibM7v3SokaNL3yLzN6x5z03Yc-Dx_UkoBHyppWd5Ypt7eejwywyFowTW_Gth4/s400/IMG_0806.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK78o4Mc1zxReE1g1yKhOGnX0cgF6aIVjFwXhe-m5_Y7Pja-9W7t9IRc5neJgQB5_VdxCemNSsQMdIgjCXyFD5YBJ0vgek9BoChPrq1zhj05nQLXpg2MiaChiCyaRPVtVU0HvzblYHOa0/s1600/IMG_0807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK78o4Mc1zxReE1g1yKhOGnX0cgF6aIVjFwXhe-m5_Y7Pja-9W7t9IRc5neJgQB5_VdxCemNSsQMdIgjCXyFD5YBJ0vgek9BoChPrq1zhj05nQLXpg2MiaChiCyaRPVtVU0HvzblYHOa0/s400/IMG_0807.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNbBx7yWY80eY-EY1oudsUsPNYDKWs7KjNz5zQlixuhzbE0EYGeOw4jhWakH4s0sgcVB9dl5tfivgF49pmbxNtNc0dHXYB3Lm_mG_1DBh6h1fOdyZnOo6vFtFrrO1wj-X9MEVZsUQn5Qc/s1600/IMG_0837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNbBx7yWY80eY-EY1oudsUsPNYDKWs7KjNz5zQlixuhzbE0EYGeOw4jhWakH4s0sgcVB9dl5tfivgF49pmbxNtNc0dHXYB3Lm_mG_1DBh6h1fOdyZnOo6vFtFrrO1wj-X9MEVZsUQn5Qc/s400/IMG_0837.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
View from the other side (we rapped the wall on the far right)<br />
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The northeast face of the Grandes Jorasses, 1000 meters high!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpea9e4VbTtIXSH07HQCthEzMTsS8ervxirNRpNJAn1dNtxxsCYY-GWmC4h71h3q5pR5qZ15u2_384_jilqkmr7PnvHCn221yBS89w0D62gp1LkWeX9uGhXUbZNFeyPjW_8g7y84PnVcg/s1600/IMG_0845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpea9e4VbTtIXSH07HQCthEzMTsS8ervxirNRpNJAn1dNtxxsCYY-GWmC4h71h3q5pR5qZ15u2_384_jilqkmr7PnvHCn221yBS89w0D62gp1LkWeX9uGhXUbZNFeyPjW_8g7y84PnVcg/s400/IMG_0845.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_CqTj4xtdBblxwtc17TGgOisBziX7d60By5JmP5r3bk1T_5mlIhnnigWH6UqunsDWaiZX47rgvFpiUNUDtnpyAUqddxmy0AJTjbM0lGDDZZZ6o9Dv0dQyHuux38uKcnSMDXawDxD6OQM/s1600/IMG_0851.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_CqTj4xtdBblxwtc17TGgOisBziX7d60By5JmP5r3bk1T_5mlIhnnigWH6UqunsDWaiZX47rgvFpiUNUDtnpyAUqddxmy0AJTjbM0lGDDZZZ6o9Dv0dQyHuux38uKcnSMDXawDxD6OQM/s400/IMG_0851.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Keith Garvey, with the Dru and the Aguille Verte in the background<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv4cc8TsPTrgqhA6m58lgBhAm_6UkB6sd7r9J-29dsJrjj2RaOocQhrDZBewi6zWcQgWLHyKOHOZOrSFcLi1xphwOzM9O9IypdXA5eWj3oNKozaMWju0qtWg3otQEbDRetovM2SNlAksw/s1600/IMG_0852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv4cc8TsPTrgqhA6m58lgBhAm_6UkB6sd7r9J-29dsJrjj2RaOocQhrDZBewi6zWcQgWLHyKOHOZOrSFcLi1xphwOzM9O9IypdXA5eWj3oNKozaMWju0qtWg3otQEbDRetovM2SNlAksw/s400/IMG_0852.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrXzY_v66E82YsdBHzUTPtd0y3saYtITXaoJ80lbMwMolrz_qN5qfUdiigXiDet3Ff57o2jDldtf-CzuFTYVBnECBlRONgdIcPI8kiGbXBoQ14BshlPV4ZFh0mbGA2XGdWiVyjulDUA1I/s1600/IMG_0853.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrXzY_v66E82YsdBHzUTPtd0y3saYtITXaoJ80lbMwMolrz_qN5qfUdiigXiDet3Ff57o2jDldtf-CzuFTYVBnECBlRONgdIcPI8kiGbXBoQ14BshlPV4ZFh0mbGA2XGdWiVyjulDUA1I/s400/IMG_0853.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdXjuKb2mj_cu-hzN0mzB_4WD2lRghfZrMr4cQrI-UANm4m9x3hAY2566dC50YjAJ1Auo_G5EodfQ9ydGrHhggpRkk_zFxDGC_cC_PEK4sQok1in8dka2_eB5s8StzElNaf_s3PZEp3yo/s1600/IMG_0855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdXjuKb2mj_cu-hzN0mzB_4WD2lRghfZrMr4cQrI-UANm4m9x3hAY2566dC50YjAJ1Auo_G5EodfQ9ydGrHhggpRkk_zFxDGC_cC_PEK4sQok1in8dka2_eB5s8StzElNaf_s3PZEp3yo/s400/IMG_0855.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Eric Larsen, Keith Garvey<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2cK_8PIZvr61hGMCblmOEJVeZtsb5B7gk4atFW2KJIqLFPcyQPbjWfhTjJkLFt4wTLKeNQL9Na8Up0-CK3nLqCEQBPSWSVV064rfbLyLMxsbMtee4wRHqVscORDVYI1o0tE78HXGzcxE/s1600/IMG_0857.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2cK_8PIZvr61hGMCblmOEJVeZtsb5B7gk4atFW2KJIqLFPcyQPbjWfhTjJkLFt4wTLKeNQL9Na8Up0-CK3nLqCEQBPSWSVV064rfbLyLMxsbMtee4wRHqVscORDVYI1o0tE78HXGzcxE/s400/IMG_0857.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Keith (striking a pose) and the Grandes Jorasses<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0geedRSp9GGj-2wjZcsLC1p5xNjygYgA1RxzQYi12ZyqCAFx150hNC29MSg6PcSOmFy0_VKQdXjTBruovbkdpJHTBg4OQtk9hZiTT6geK4TX6hCpnu9ruHKeMvfUjNHfuPdG5SxBSHuI/s1600/IMG_0864.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0geedRSp9GGj-2wjZcsLC1p5xNjygYgA1RxzQYi12ZyqCAFx150hNC29MSg6PcSOmFy0_VKQdXjTBruovbkdpJHTBg4OQtk9hZiTT6geK4TX6hCpnu9ruHKeMvfUjNHfuPdG5SxBSHuI/s400/IMG_0864.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br />
same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSz39i9vhMMj1JEzti3vMspv7dbXiPKQVq1HBvdbYn_loQ5cVtUGLw0MqcYcT_Upb1rF1PUQAGFF7_cSMP78nCb6x9YPTtR9biwjbG9Yg4vea5P-PK8MPGSj1Ind-So9tchwMDefaGiy8/s1600/IMG_0860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSz39i9vhMMj1JEzti3vMspv7dbXiPKQVq1HBvdbYn_loQ5cVtUGLw0MqcYcT_Upb1rF1PUQAGFF7_cSMP78nCb6x9YPTtR9biwjbG9Yg4vea5P-PK8MPGSj1Ind-So9tchwMDefaGiy8/s400/IMG_0860.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
cool photo<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidzfeKwbm3Iuj4y67BkltRK8-A9hKQmo2M6RjV2eUtUQj5cKucbGD0a9Mckf2BZ3VxnpRBy8gX7NAb00xW7KVfw34kQi-VSy9FJ2I1qLtEdaYuc8iCj86oz3gJTjYGloqc7CNx6d8wwvs/s1600/IMG_0862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidzfeKwbm3Iuj4y67BkltRK8-A9hKQmo2M6RjV2eUtUQj5cKucbGD0a9Mckf2BZ3VxnpRBy8gX7NAb00xW7KVfw34kQi-VSy9FJ2I1qLtEdaYuc8iCj86oz3gJTjYGloqc7CNx6d8wwvs/s400/IMG_0862.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcz7Usi1Yw2Y3BnuxUVHetMZhCMCjlWFqO2SJ3jZrcdOvtxvXr3vGXvCtb7jalcd0zrjy7I3gPpyXTagsV7bGEa9BpkgrFgNXpniXUonNRamYy1nXbzS6Nv4eCMQ4CjZrOG6GFqh7tSA8/s1600/IMG_0866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcz7Usi1Yw2Y3BnuxUVHetMZhCMCjlWFqO2SJ3jZrcdOvtxvXr3vGXvCtb7jalcd0zrjy7I3gPpyXTagsV7bGEa9BpkgrFgNXpniXUonNRamYy1nXbzS6Nv4eCMQ4CjZrOG6GFqh7tSA8/s400/IMG_0866.JPG" height="300" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a><br />
Grandes Jorasses<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg35tf0ciNfHJok8waAyyr_7klYdIPi5iNGsoxInKFDUvBGRlbymtOUHPT7VYAwg_-1XTwDK5x8jYWM2mQ7gCR8KCydOiqYykYqJ3bKZqVpekkLo2gzH_poeQuC0hBc70eFIiaIsgXxKyw/s1600/IMG_0886.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg35tf0ciNfHJok8waAyyr_7klYdIPi5iNGsoxInKFDUvBGRlbymtOUHPT7VYAwg_-1XTwDK5x8jYWM2mQ7gCR8KCydOiqYykYqJ3bKZqVpekkLo2gzH_poeQuC0hBc70eFIiaIsgXxKyw/s400/IMG_0886.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
The Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier du Lechaud<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ7UnFfqC6Xjpj24ak6l2o5iOGUwKiod56-tNPS6SatMxviY_LLiB2H1Wxv1lc3osOjjOBqQN6Trmjf8PUhb7Zj8tnltRf-TyFzn8Fc7-XGHJ5ppjJuwZZtwBghslgRrtnCDd2tcpm-DQ/s1600/IMG_0888.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ7UnFfqC6Xjpj24ak6l2o5iOGUwKiod56-tNPS6SatMxviY_LLiB2H1Wxv1lc3osOjjOBqQN6Trmjf8PUhb7Zj8tnltRf-TyFzn8Fc7-XGHJ5ppjJuwZZtwBghslgRrtnCDd2tcpm-DQ/s400/IMG_0888.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx5SDIsNSNiMxUADg11D7cmOYOK6yTpsvqMAksTC4V8RWrtdg0Qpr3XnbVCuQ6ZdpOdCA770pIH5GWN7q_lhiBg9nxd7EDf4PLMVlDZ39-iSz1PKSzcGAzF9qtcPEw9o1CRxaS2b3_Mbs/s1600/IMG_0882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx5SDIsNSNiMxUADg11D7cmOYOK6yTpsvqMAksTC4V8RWrtdg0Qpr3XnbVCuQ6ZdpOdCA770pIH5GWN7q_lhiBg9nxd7EDf4PLMVlDZ39-iSz1PKSzcGAzF9qtcPEw9o1CRxaS2b3_Mbs/s400/IMG_0882.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Balanced erratic (boulder), and the Glacier du Lechaud (after we skied it)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbuiDyu0cLMobj9iY9Jvs8snMD5DvMfef6xdrXveDekGXoP2bdywPNkYn244HDFHKlc9vUFzkoOoWxn6boixYEb6ZfUeeJ4473h7kpGgi9WhXUV_bNEFlC6lVh0QKV9Ap_zcFo7jam-z0/s1600/IMG_0887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbuiDyu0cLMobj9iY9Jvs8snMD5DvMfef6xdrXveDekGXoP2bdywPNkYn244HDFHKlc9vUFzkoOoWxn6boixYEb6ZfUeeJ4473h7kpGgi9WhXUV_bNEFlC6lVh0QKV9Ap_zcFo7jam-z0/s400/IMG_0887.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZAmDHCENCrm9dfaiI0jvgvUH-QlqmTdZrqf9v6WDkfO742dxOz_pULu1gDMzMpk6ORiwPpQ5_DP92ffgkcdR8snU-bZatlSzEewI6byYBCUIAFJAi4pUP9aca9qRcNB_-_2buIs75Rco/s1600/IMG_0887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>Refuge de Couvercle</div>
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same</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh1YPxC8mDc2fXl-cCy1NZnlNr8QBRYrD-pObY1Wy8KDqdvODFgkH2l3J3XL_TCdlukiVGYqOcy5NdG6Ptn6jEMcnlzUPlWbZJ_Yc70gkJnP2ONCRxBgV5eIJ_INumuDE8Yv0grr4C1nQ/s1600/IMG_0892.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh1YPxC8mDc2fXl-cCy1NZnlNr8QBRYrD-pObY1Wy8KDqdvODFgkH2l3J3XL_TCdlukiVGYqOcy5NdG6Ptn6jEMcnlzUPlWbZJ_Yc70gkJnP2ONCRxBgV5eIJ_INumuDE8Yv0grr4C1nQ/s320/IMG_0892.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a><br />
from inside<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYhW-ywZXii27AJPD_2lKfJAuxtJaz89BSsUVudcKZfVZsLqIqHrlY-QbTvI73w1JjW9edCyrPQho0h5wP9bUV7iQA229jmnHraG4ESHIbCxWd94dXOeDH0MrW8g1Y6nSuG_JSsg72Klc/s1600/IMG_0893.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYhW-ywZXii27AJPD_2lKfJAuxtJaz89BSsUVudcKZfVZsLqIqHrlY-QbTvI73w1JjW9edCyrPQho0h5wP9bUV7iQA229jmnHraG4ESHIbCxWd94dXOeDH0MrW8g1Y6nSuG_JSsg72Klc/s400/IMG_0893.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR9sW8IaqsTl-Cwg4St0LSPinvrj_cF8z-a1LwcFzPwJvBxhUb85XqdD5iWxHh0lWrlDKl5FPd8N3h827Q_kGyiEC25TJH4_VlJvSYN9lgVtW3BkkWXKZSZ2KRvLl4g1Qd32y3xtNwEDc/s1600/IMG_0904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR9sW8IaqsTl-Cwg4St0LSPinvrj_cF8z-a1LwcFzPwJvBxhUb85XqdD5iWxHh0lWrlDKl5FPd8N3h827Q_kGyiEC25TJH4_VlJvSYN9lgVtW3BkkWXKZSZ2KRvLl4g1Qd32y3xtNwEDc/s400/IMG_0904.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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same</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1_b6hXqUETllSOjE5EYA2oTmLzROpSGXmCBIVwS57zLd7jSPEGLZFkdIHoziPNOoYH7aW-zbsCTYKrK98nu1cI6HHH3uU4Smzgi4tAd8s0Poav3CBWbEQUPbDneMO4d8ZHMwlilCSxr8/s1600/IMG_0908.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1_b6hXqUETllSOjE5EYA2oTmLzROpSGXmCBIVwS57zLd7jSPEGLZFkdIHoziPNOoYH7aW-zbsCTYKrK98nu1cI6HHH3uU4Smzgi4tAd8s0Poav3CBWbEQUPbDneMO4d8ZHMwlilCSxr8/s400/IMG_0908.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSyd-X1ngtuKSb9ldDC7ki_K3Imt4gtzZxbLMY_SnUfrBcKMK9kTpkXriUeO0DTKdYJb1bTz7fwbXa4XP0gMfxSmg3y7bwfBMk90FDqTHpwyei1dMGYBWQvRg6N4UGBmtGnKgvUyl469Y/s1600/IMG_0912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSyd-X1ngtuKSb9ldDC7ki_K3Imt4gtzZxbLMY_SnUfrBcKMK9kTpkXriUeO0DTKdYJb1bTz7fwbXa4XP0gMfxSmg3y7bwfBMk90FDqTHpwyei1dMGYBWQvRg6N4UGBmtGnKgvUyl469Y/s400/IMG_0912.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Our objective for the following day<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj85CN52HTYhDOegDN1vBL0POo5NQIvngKnFZ3lcdEKqUki4SSUAAG9JaesGJklgzASoIDZK1MpAAy6fRdL1NhIXDHZAs9m3_Zy85QNUAsbiXLUdwn6WkJf8OTywS4YLulJxUMDGWRXYvo/s1600/IMG_0926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj85CN52HTYhDOegDN1vBL0POo5NQIvngKnFZ3lcdEKqUki4SSUAAG9JaesGJklgzASoIDZK1MpAAy6fRdL1NhIXDHZAs9m3_Zy85QNUAsbiXLUdwn6WkJf8OTywS4YLulJxUMDGWRXYvo/s400/IMG_0926.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Refuge de Couvercle, dawn<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRSf7C_PlPzCFaYsJHofN44ZL0GNdsLmdo2oivSEJYBSymHHe1MLdG86fIxT7S_sDgZHLO65oEFZLn_AOugfm0rXMc2IqAq7sCEVyQMJvgGwQ5pmOwjt71NZ74_jb-r2hAlipW-OAVc4I/s1600/IMG_0934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRSf7C_PlPzCFaYsJHofN44ZL0GNdsLmdo2oivSEJYBSymHHe1MLdG86fIxT7S_sDgZHLO65oEFZLn_AOugfm0rXMc2IqAq7sCEVyQMJvgGwQ5pmOwjt71NZ74_jb-r2hAlipW-OAVc4I/s400/IMG_0934.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
En route<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdEaL1m84YOz771MW2RxOmELAe_dsbkHfzynWndzejMQtZjLnO44ap_ZOUFuN3AI4CB3ufprod9sxuAqt-OkxCxani0Zorzma4KNdYazb-Fbix9yGt2fnPbQGqAZAOUbLA2fmLzc5L2J0/s1600/IMG_0938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdEaL1m84YOz771MW2RxOmELAe_dsbkHfzynWndzejMQtZjLnO44ap_ZOUFuN3AI4CB3ufprod9sxuAqt-OkxCxani0Zorzma4KNdYazb-Fbix9yGt2fnPbQGqAZAOUbLA2fmLzc5L2J0/s400/IMG_0938.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
En route<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAXrBnoUzGfnO1X3uqitcCFfbrJF_TpKm2iSiXV72reD7P7E-jXyVHhPUH61QUJC3lMh_toTGz__LQBug_y1UMWl7wK_7_PGt-_t_G-FxxIO7UfDzdLuoZhV2yuIdqkFxaG_JFd22__GY/s1600/IMG_0960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAXrBnoUzGfnO1X3uqitcCFfbrJF_TpKm2iSiXV72reD7P7E-jXyVHhPUH61QUJC3lMh_toTGz__LQBug_y1UMWl7wK_7_PGt-_t_G-FxxIO7UfDzdLuoZhV2yuIdqkFxaG_JFd22__GY/s400/IMG_0960.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Lunch</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">A FEW MORE:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilopqPSBMCUGzax9H9qIwsuOvQDndn2HzpYjNIJH_tf7_BoWPVyUClc0otR5tOik69KrYvmFSiXAxGP_0tUIqow_iuGbum6WYwXIdz06l3HdzQp3NOaeH0fkUyBtwUNJN_hzuJBNrQfGY/s1600/IMG_0974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilopqPSBMCUGzax9H9qIwsuOvQDndn2HzpYjNIJH_tf7_BoWPVyUClc0otR5tOik69KrYvmFSiXAxGP_0tUIqow_iuGbum6WYwXIdz06l3HdzQp3NOaeH0fkUyBtwUNJN_hzuJBNrQfGY/s400/IMG_0974.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="300" /></a></span></span></div>
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Climbing into a crevasse</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXHGle2Z3A0d8u6HTcB_3zQam83vLAZuFg9fZ8vBj4RyE9FEVQLlgrhnWH003naXRpUMiPivYOM8mkrJza-fwBkTLe8MsL0tVZAW67F16I7nAtrcvR-NWIFaCcSfJQZbnvoewXWgMyvpI/s1600/IMG_0971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXHGle2Z3A0d8u6HTcB_3zQam83vLAZuFg9fZ8vBj4RyE9FEVQLlgrhnWH003naXRpUMiPivYOM8mkrJza-fwBkTLe8MsL0tVZAW67F16I7nAtrcvR-NWIFaCcSfJQZbnvoewXWgMyvpI/s400/IMG_0971.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Snow bridge, inside the crevasse<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYnY4NNdOAuSQELYbM2XIUEyRcDsKYCfGJfkey2rrYMK53fpcXcZsp1it269Ve1n41C2GTmKxM9PqxS1PcFonzSvcKwGR9yOYV2NeuXkfzukKkyp0MzKzuyIE-aP-F_OUlmS2Jv9m8UFs/s1600/IMG_0981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYnY4NNdOAuSQELYbM2XIUEyRcDsKYCfGJfkey2rrYMK53fpcXcZsp1it269Ve1n41C2GTmKxM9PqxS1PcFonzSvcKwGR9yOYV2NeuXkfzukKkyp0MzKzuyIE-aP-F_OUlmS2Jv9m8UFs/s400/IMG_0981.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
inside the crevasse<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0y0apzwHUL-z2mD0UiuG2rrF0rtmIG0gny-M81ut2_wW6MQgDJCWhsxcs9Y6vFx_bKTNxk-SmNd-pcRoP9ZerS8hJU1vnVfPWSckyHYPSn7UHsAFh8WfhPpyFnH9hzzwZmL5kUPicA8/s1600/IMG_0989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0y0apzwHUL-z2mD0UiuG2rrF0rtmIG0gny-M81ut2_wW6MQgDJCWhsxcs9Y6vFx_bKTNxk-SmNd-pcRoP9ZerS8hJU1vnVfPWSckyHYPSn7UHsAFh8WfhPpyFnH9hzzwZmL5kUPicA8/s400/IMG_0989.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
Ridge above crevasse<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwN2VXUAgq8kF9OreS2tRliijRgmeiuCn7kN9fepVFmMgBND_4Sp-kndJrXnrM06Q17pJqs4vzdnslqCEuix3s-aNw6mCfXQtLm09-vnVsx3c25wm9D3FVtdD_Mbc0OIAS3VfrZxeHq-4/s1600/IMG_0990.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwN2VXUAgq8kF9OreS2tRliijRgmeiuCn7kN9fepVFmMgBND_4Sp-kndJrXnrM06Q17pJqs4vzdnslqCEuix3s-aNw6mCfXQtLm09-vnVsx3c25wm9D3FVtdD_Mbc0OIAS3VfrZxeHq-4/s400/IMG_0990.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Vallee Blanche, Dent du Geant, Mt. Blanc du Tacul in the background</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAPu1ZwpFDnWKEpNCvOghktIz1wb0DymWVNsjY1IaAnD9KIFvS4Dy6rHG4FziVXPYh3Gn4xKNxFSkUgvzX34-yAxdVqoSPqz3LsYfuo1Zyg_iuylAM1qRUpDIXuc3lMcpjRA1UKG8lEc/s1600/IMG_0999.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAPu1ZwpFDnWKEpNCvOghktIz1wb0DymWVNsjY1IaAnD9KIFvS4Dy6rHG4FziVXPYh3Gn4xKNxFSkUgvzX34-yAxdVqoSPqz3LsYfuo1Zyg_iuylAM1qRUpDIXuc3lMcpjRA1UKG8lEc/s400/IMG_0999.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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same</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2yM8I3x8-zTh5PE0lcjtG1N2LV5fuO_O7rsXvgTqRPVSR6ATsCx1RzTJ80Z6KbOrzhAXirGDGvK1tXa7FLChFOZEMk6Kk4VOBQ2VVc4Ry04wcG3m7X1WnQV7BmMyHkbh0upICQjJmQP4/s1600/IMG_1012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2yM8I3x8-zTh5PE0lcjtG1N2LV5fuO_O7rsXvgTqRPVSR6ATsCx1RzTJ80Z6KbOrzhAXirGDGvK1tXa7FLChFOZEMk6Kk4VOBQ2VVc4Ry04wcG3m7X1WnQV7BmMyHkbh0upICQjJmQP4/s400/IMG_1012.JPG" height="300" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div>
same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFOMdxmKwKS3GoVqTnwrdoEZc2JPsRtFxRtpkZ2RtMptZ_skOuo1AJsIEK85p1HHtLJHEQxmp0NB9OnNwLJMN5ggnoLCRxiB8i7GrkqkDamgDj0q73TV95d6VmUsccYB0qs0Mxxkh2VmU/s1600/IMG_0994.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFOMdxmKwKS3GoVqTnwrdoEZc2JPsRtFxRtpkZ2RtMptZ_skOuo1AJsIEK85p1HHtLJHEQxmp0NB9OnNwLJMN5ggnoLCRxiB8i7GrkqkDamgDj0q73TV95d6VmUsccYB0qs0Mxxkh2VmU/s400/IMG_0994.JPG" height="300" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a><br />
Close up<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUpUqsbxPY0dMhE2PTLjvr4Y3WUWgPsDn13-IDwq56C6565FAqYXLfklGjpCJFTQZotWx2yOjhDElylzlU3WPckyVkrmt1dO6usbCZLT1WkXdTNsAWcuffrT5n8HvbTM9z46AJQfsYVtg/s1600/IMG_0993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUpUqsbxPY0dMhE2PTLjvr4Y3WUWgPsDn13-IDwq56C6565FAqYXLfklGjpCJFTQZotWx2yOjhDElylzlU3WPckyVkrmt1dO6usbCZLT1WkXdTNsAWcuffrT5n8HvbTM9z46AJQfsYVtg/s400/IMG_0993.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
again<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNL0InBXg9YZVONhyphenhyphenSPsXdw5Q-8ANqgCFI1N-zndjqIeYZlcUxvjn3cctMRJ-P6NAdGufN2nrEB17VNTIQxOV0yblOWb-HWbwGxHKLaL3geWzCSanYk98tLUUtDa199fD30GVwbwHPdyM/s1600/IMG_1007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNL0InBXg9YZVONhyphenhyphenSPsXdw5Q-8ANqgCFI1N-zndjqIeYZlcUxvjn3cctMRJ-P6NAdGufN2nrEB17VNTIQxOV0yblOWb-HWbwGxHKLaL3geWzCSanYk98tLUUtDa199fD30GVwbwHPdyM/s400/IMG_1007.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
cool photo<br />
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same, but with glider in the background</div>
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Close up of Grand Envers du Plan, which Eric and I skied the day before (route is directly below the Aguille du Midi, straight down the middle of the frame, exiting in the extra large couloir bottom of photo)<br />
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cant get enough of this view, obviously<br />
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Our exit route<br />
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again, but with small plane parked on the glacier below<br />
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close-up of plane<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc3znS74gyQYZVEEwH-2rQl8HtyxkB9m6cR4459Jpn5VFBrW8N4-QwJpDrs7_THYz8jIKdlV3lshiVLk45Jg46saDb5oXwJeU5-XCZw67mYfV2kcwqQDLxzBLD1tUE_4Bv2YpfgLuyfZY/s1600/IMG_1032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc3znS74gyQYZVEEwH-2rQl8HtyxkB9m6cR4459Jpn5VFBrW8N4-QwJpDrs7_THYz8jIKdlV3lshiVLk45Jg46saDb5oXwJeU5-XCZw67mYfV2kcwqQDLxzBLD1tUE_4Bv2YpfgLuyfZY/s400/IMG_1032.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Glacier travel<br />
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again<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWWBnE61tHYRSVUsUyQ00asTGlRKuM_FVCDb62h345i38MyTQuaPpfrRrdxtsc8yapyUs5U8aRQU21MnugTBlPDQNBZagNVNDdcq3rSw3JAM34_RuKMSJLXKqGjeWc-kwughjRYvCONP0/s1600/IMG_1038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWWBnE61tHYRSVUsUyQ00asTGlRKuM_FVCDb62h345i38MyTQuaPpfrRrdxtsc8yapyUs5U8aRQU21MnugTBlPDQNBZagNVNDdcq3rSw3JAM34_RuKMSJLXKqGjeWc-kwughjRYvCONP0/s400/IMG_1038.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
same<br />
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same</div>
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Our equipment on the other side of the crevasse<br />
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Keith in the background providing belay<br />
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Glacier corn skiing<br />
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The crew, with the ridge we summited, upper right<br />
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same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUBgzz1JwsAV0x6cPDrGfNTyx5P9HMWp83USgtvu0AbCq-PCmxVXmNsL66Acsf1sJ-GXZ5VPsfGDHeaFcB-vKrYm7LX-BOnG8kfAQkEQnSAiHBWuPZFR8MPlIhVIaeAuL5nfUU2TPQvrE/s1600/IMG_1064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUBgzz1JwsAV0x6cPDrGfNTyx5P9HMWp83USgtvu0AbCq-PCmxVXmNsL66Acsf1sJ-GXZ5VPsfGDHeaFcB-vKrYm7LX-BOnG8kfAQkEQnSAiHBWuPZFR8MPlIhVIaeAuL5nfUU2TPQvrE/s400/IMG_1064.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Grandes Jorasses<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipUkeoLWR_LM2G7D4FC4z7_GL7n8swTHMKQe7Vxe-L5iicfmEJazLOygLQfiNkRz0VQYLn9lxZIvGRusXd_FDoMLfnAg4_TpVeBb2FBfmkVyPa6d13dFICjOMumgqwlcjxLKoM3Gw3VB8/s1600/IMG_1067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipUkeoLWR_LM2G7D4FC4z7_GL7n8swTHMKQe7Vxe-L5iicfmEJazLOygLQfiNkRz0VQYLn9lxZIvGRusXd_FDoMLfnAg4_TpVeBb2FBfmkVyPa6d13dFICjOMumgqwlcjxLKoM3Gw3VB8/s400/IMG_1067.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
same<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMDo4jmlDubblWCtVvvBHgDzVb2riZ4tGQU_vYfW8tkUOhWAcCPLbCoRGeUb9tGVy_iCm1f-dFNqD7cihrhTVNBZI5booHoEDDp-NEgFIbpkMJvn4DKNQiNwb0SxLSoJlzNIMlNrhpURY/s1600/IMG_1070.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMDo4jmlDubblWCtVvvBHgDzVb2riZ4tGQU_vYfW8tkUOhWAcCPLbCoRGeUb9tGVy_iCm1f-dFNqD7cihrhTVNBZI5booHoEDDp-NEgFIbpkMJvn4DKNQiNwb0SxLSoJlzNIMlNrhpURY/s400/IMG_1070.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
wide<br />
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long<br />
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Eric, taking a break<br />
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Eric en route, Mer du Glace in the distance<br />
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Another view, notice huge smooth rock faces on right<br />
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Exit from Mer du Glace (tourist access inside glacier, below)<br />
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Gondola station<br />
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Platform, below train station, another 3000' of vertical remaining<br />
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It's beer-thirty, our tour nearly complete (obviously too conservative with the sunscreen...and maybe a little heavy on the flash setting too)</div>
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David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-13643256917518406312012-03-18T13:35:00.013-06:002012-05-31T22:49:47.222-06:00St. Patrick's Day<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Central!</span><br />
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Yesterday, I skiied my personal nemesis, Central Couloir, a gnarly line off Cody Peak in the Jackson Hole backcountry. It is a super steep and very exposed line, with a 30' cornice on the entry and a 30' jump on the exit (at least this year). It's a line I've done before, but not since rupturing my ACL three seasons ago. Central requires that you ride it in near perfect conditions, as any mistake could be fatal or at least result in serious injury. And since it takes more than an hour to hike to, and its position on the mountain is unique, conditions are rarely what you expect them to be; you are often forced to turn away. My knee situation in particular precludes most attempts, and I must approach the line with extra caution. Yesterday, with conditions sketchy at best (poor visibility and strong, persistent southwest winds loading the entry), I hiked up to the entrance to see what was up. I found deep, powdery windblown snow, with two tracks (not always an indicator of safety!) leading the way. While the wind was still blowing, the skies cleared briefly, just enough for me to make out the contours in the snow. I dropped in behind two others who graciously requested priority, as it was apparent from my setup that I wanted to rappel. The snow was knee deep, slightly damp, and very slabby, but I let it slough below me on each turn. As I approached the exit, I stopped, assessed the size of the jump, concluded that I could do it if I had to, and took a deep, reassured breath. I then built a snow anchor and used all 40 meters of my rope to rappel the cliff. I unclipped, stowed the rope away in my pack, and dropped the last 7-10 foot air before riding out. Mission accomplished.</div>
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Satisfied with my season, I am setting off tomorrow morning for Chamonix and La Grave, where the snow is deeper and the lines even bigger!<br />
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<br />David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-845451984300006102012-03-13T17:08:00.025-06:002012-06-07T11:00:20.795-06:00Three Days of Ski Mountaineering in the Tetons<div style="text-align: justify;">
On Monday my good friend Brent Hutchenson came to Jackson for a quick visit and to take advantage of the fantastic conditions here. I know that Brent likes to get after it, so in anticipation of his arrival I did some recon on Sunday for potential lines. I dropped into Horseshoe couloir off the backside of the tram for the first time this year to check out conditions and size up the cliff band in the middle. Luckily, I brought my rope, as the drop was at least 20', and upwards of 30'+ depending on your point of entry. I found an anchor, and rappelled in with little difficulty, avoiding the jump altogether. After some sweet turns in good snow, I hiked out in a short amount of time, and decided to check out another area that I had not yet been to before, the Northwest Territories in Granite Canyon, immediately off the northwestern ridge of JHMR, but within the Grand Teton National Park boundary. I dropped a very aesthetic couloir called Triple-A chute, a beautiful line of close to 3000' surrounded by massive rock walls on either side, with two tight chokes and one mandatory air of about 7-10 feet. It was burly, with a tricky entry and a fair amount of exposure, but surely one the coolest lines in the Northern Rockies. On the following day, Brent joined me, and we repeated the same itinerary exactly 24 hours later. This time there was fresh snow (and <i>zero</i> tracks), as a small system dropped 3-4 inches overnight and winds blew in even more, requiring a roped ski cut on one entry. We had cool, sunny weather and perfect snow all day. The following morning we did a quick hike off the tram and up Cody Peak, with Central Couloir in our sights. Due to some marginal conditions (cold weather and clouds had seized up the snow even in shaded aspects), we decided Four Shadows was a safer line, and dropped in hot from the top, making big GS turns in chalky snow. Our exit from the canyon, on the other hand, involved a mixed bag of conditions: everything from soft snow to hard-pack and ice, to slush and death cookies (or frozen slush), and we moved much more cautiously. Before Brent left, we made plans to return together and ride Central another day. Photos below:</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Our tour through Granite Canyon (photographer unknown)</span></div>
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Day Two: Repeat<br />
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Day Three: Cody Peak</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">(photo taken in April, 2011)</span></div>David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-20777793416233039422012-03-09T13:31:00.041-07:002013-03-17T08:43:52.601-06:00Nez Perce/ West Hourglass Couloir, GTNP<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Yesterday I completed a two day solo tour of Garnet Canyon in the Cathedral Group of Grand Teton National Park. I climbed nearly 5,000 vertical feet, skinning most of the way, and when it became impossible to skin, I boot-packed the remaining 2,000' or so up a steep couloir named West Hourglass. I left the parking area at around 9:00 in the morning, topped out at about 11,000' at 6:00 p.m., and rode the long, narrow (and dark) couloir in under 5 minutes. I bivouacked overnight in a snow pit under a large boulder at the base of another couloir I planned to hike in the morning. I barely had enough insulation as my bag was rated for 20 degrees and the mercury dropped to around eight that night. Luckily I brought a bivy sack to squirm into, and the snow pit encasing my tent added another measure of warmth. I arose at dawn, brushing away the snow that had accumulated in my tent, stepped out into the sun and attempted to insert my already numb feet into solidly frozen boots. As I struggled, an obviously fit man in tights skinned past me, completely oblivious to my plight. He was lightly geared, but with his track angling towards the high saddle connecting the Grand and the Middle Teton, and two ice axes strapped to his pack, he looked like he was getting into some heavy shit. After breaking camp, and lacking sufficient energy for anything more challenging, I reluctantly pulled myself and my unwieldy pack up the aforementioned couloir, topping out before noon. I was rewarded with a splendid view of the Grand Teton, Nez Perce, Shadow Peak, and the Shadow Peak cirque, with the east-facing Sliver couloir just out of view from my position. Before strapping in to drop the chute I had just booted up, I stopped to snap a few pictures of the Grand. As I did this, I noticed a single track coming off the summit and down to the top of the Stettner couloir. Had my friend in tights summited the Grand Teton in the time it took me to break camp, have breakfast, and hike this relatively minor couloir, descending the Stettner with the help of his ice axes? I will never know, but I would bet a fair sum that it was his track I had scoped, as the conditions were ideal for a single day ascent/descent of the Grand, and there are athletes in this valley that are more than capable of such an achievement.</div>
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I rode a brilliant line close to my original skin track, returning to my car around 1:00 p.m., via the frozen Bradley lake and over the terminal moraine bordering it, utterly exhausted. To think that another man could climb 7,000' of technical rock, ice, and snow, and descend one of the most dangerous lines in North America in the span of half a day was well, almost unthinkable! Had he even beat me to the parking area? In any event, all I could think about at the moment was a Quarter Pounder with cheese, large fries, and a Coke. Without an ounce of guilt, I drove straight for McDonald's. <br />
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It was a great tour and a big accomplishment for me, but it was tempered by some tragic news I was told by my friend on the way home: Two highly skilled and accomplished local skiers had perished in an avalanche two canyons over from me the previous afternoon, on a southeast, sunlit couloir, nearly 3,000' in length. The entire couloir slid, over rocks and cliff bands, burying the skiers under just a few feet of debris, but killing them instantly, as the size and extent of the slide path made it unsurvivable. I rationalize the event somehow by acknowledging my decision to stay in shaded, north-facing slopes, foregoing my original plan to ski the Sliver, which happens to be the same aspect as the one which slid. Of course, as they say hindsight is 20-20; Steve Romeo and Chris Onufer were two of the world's most experienced backcountry skiers, skiing in relatively moderate conditions. Despite the best precautions, you never really know what the mountains might have in store for you.</div>
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Some photos (read captions first, then click any photo for slideshow):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtwtCg361o5xcgtp0e0C5E7GfJr9PlJ3sN0ddk6IVbwyX9mWr0KQ_dba_wAuzb-SRUN_4BcHidZXT8aNcGF3_-W74rSgztNLNqX-e22CifxvkWAgs8JkfXdldD9eo4y6Yba88PjCQXQlM/s1600/West+Hourglass+route.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtwtCg361o5xcgtp0e0C5E7GfJr9PlJ3sN0ddk6IVbwyX9mWr0KQ_dba_wAuzb-SRUN_4BcHidZXT8aNcGF3_-W74rSgztNLNqX-e22CifxvkWAgs8JkfXdldD9eo4y6Yba88PjCQXQlM/s320/West+Hourglass+route.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">My route, minus the leftward summit section (photographer unknown)</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_RDzRt4aWKTuT7KK25wy3PjKOEjtowFm79JkOdwjy3Hzm3KqBe7tDFzKQv944YZMo1pk57S8LoyKgiFjubJmAynxVd_qfkkN6mszA6OJoEKaDyb0JUXHIcuqX4g0Rln5vqbjLgZWxtGo/s1600/IMG_0251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_RDzRt4aWKTuT7KK25wy3PjKOEjtowFm79JkOdwjy3Hzm3KqBe7tDFzKQv944YZMo1pk57S8LoyKgiFjubJmAynxVd_qfkkN6mszA6OJoEKaDyb0JUXHIcuqX4g0Rln5vqbjLgZWxtGo/s320/IMG_0251.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Untracked Pow!</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvHWZclmBVL_7gBjhj89vL1yj_jO8MQNZ80p6eeBJ7iCjrJ-eiN5bDp9gku9a93t2gmpeLBUI1B-pYe3CNnj-4aDyO6tf-SVfJlo41wUiZkomoXSc2x9Q32fVl4ugjo4k2j9mlOOfluAQ/s1600/IMG_0255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvHWZclmBVL_7gBjhj89vL1yj_jO8MQNZ80p6eeBJ7iCjrJ-eiN5bDp9gku9a93t2gmpeLBUI1B-pYe3CNnj-4aDyO6tf-SVfJlo41wUiZkomoXSc2x9Q32fVl4ugjo4k2j9mlOOfluAQ/s320/IMG_0255.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Skin track, 'Platforms'</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-lF6Be4XF8klh5DBoIR0DGjt8CKJ8ALEXVXtPjtjbnqApBfN0p_1acRQGWBVr2Pp9__AWsXBZb45FYH6GMf5yVrp0_nOY1dQYQso5m-w-r20IQxBJiE6IgnbQn_L45eXfc-s2WDLitrQ/s1600/IMG_0258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-lF6Be4XF8klh5DBoIR0DGjt8CKJ8ALEXVXtPjtjbnqApBfN0p_1acRQGWBVr2Pp9__AWsXBZb45FYH6GMf5yVrp0_nOY1dQYQso5m-w-r20IQxBJiE6IgnbQn_L45eXfc-s2WDLitrQ/s320/IMG_0258.JPG" width="240" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Platforms</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJLuDim545bGZgL74s3DGhUQ9PBkbTJPyBqkFlePgR_QiTKgJCXluQiL9dXiwoM5Oe93BkBYeitST_fdbTlX8ChocZQjgPzD-xLWEuJTFn4mzkPIDRnPQFW-VJQb-C5HUv_tsRtrw-RTE/s1600/IMG_0259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJLuDim545bGZgL74s3DGhUQ9PBkbTJPyBqkFlePgR_QiTKgJCXluQiL9dXiwoM5Oe93BkBYeitST_fdbTlX8ChocZQjgPzD-xLWEuJTFn4mzkPIDRnPQFW-VJQb-C5HUv_tsRtrw-RTE/s320/IMG_0259.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Same</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeR1GkBBA74BYUPeZef7I-cvoAWunRL-NySIupx_DW4Jrvb44XUn7Uygj8aNs6zDnDAoF61yq8uhwUW1kDbQ8vvuTET03I_gfiBcGKk9_H866DDwAOpnej-XEVZkHH8YuysHei04bPac8/s1600/IMG_0262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeR1GkBBA74BYUPeZef7I-cvoAWunRL-NySIupx_DW4Jrvb44XUn7Uygj8aNs6zDnDAoF61yq8uhwUW1kDbQ8vvuTET03I_gfiBcGKk9_H866DDwAOpnej-XEVZkHH8YuysHei04bPac8/s320/IMG_0262.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">2nd Couloir</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0yIA1pLWcVfc35mP6Tx75-PcQw9D4cY8Xn6_3RYTcypx0SfQHRIMVAIXLsdknBbjTH36x9cFnFo_OnzAlxSCrMpWzaGpI_tCi3ulLhYG95paV2ExurAEBDpJDyRhXQ7aDK5VhB5jAmOA/s1600/IMG_0263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0yIA1pLWcVfc35mP6Tx75-PcQw9D4cY8Xn6_3RYTcypx0SfQHRIMVAIXLsdknBbjTH36x9cFnFo_OnzAlxSCrMpWzaGpI_tCi3ulLhYG95paV2ExurAEBDpJDyRhXQ7aDK5VhB5jAmOA/s320/IMG_0263.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">2nd Couloir</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_rkXCGbt0OeN8lGIabMZ01YToBu2VchpBUqUSnZX6ZdaTPOjlnxhqjlB2gNzWWOODvHjd5UL1s3OsTIUKtQtqrz5wFuPDp_eAJGzF__eXxhwVA57MPf1Pt2iWiuZh4v9k12LDNLg4u3c/s1600/IMG_0268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_rkXCGbt0OeN8lGIabMZ01YToBu2VchpBUqUSnZX6ZdaTPOjlnxhqjlB2gNzWWOODvHjd5UL1s3OsTIUKtQtqrz5wFuPDp_eAJGzF__eXxhwVA57MPf1Pt2iWiuZh4v9k12LDNLg4u3c/s320/IMG_0268.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Skin track through the 'Meadows'</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXJYBIViY30FMhvzA6lJ4zViyCSBUTQOWPjNN_3cOvNapdFbB-tJXrsAxv6HnTmtUaY44aj5ABg2KE6RDribKspTY3zL78RBGnIkieSJ2k3nWSE5-lepg8L-Q6Xq-OfG55pK2c-ZBVrbE/s1600/IMG_0270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXJYBIViY30FMhvzA6lJ4zViyCSBUTQOWPjNN_3cOvNapdFbB-tJXrsAxv6HnTmtUaY44aj5ABg2KE6RDribKspTY3zL78RBGnIkieSJ2k3nWSE5-lepg8L-Q6Xq-OfG55pK2c-ZBVrbE/s320/IMG_0270.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Skin track through the 'Meadows'</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbk2V-ir2WQArJKIpa6QUqFhA3IOWY2D533krUTtuTzkfSpnLY51D7reMU9JuSON8bVcwpikcUCtC9nwoCBo7tZ1fyQabDvMxlBFRrm9btoGy5J_SnslufRoKWK7wodAo4IbzhL0Ktda8/s1600/IMG_0274.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbk2V-ir2WQArJKIpa6QUqFhA3IOWY2D533krUTtuTzkfSpnLY51D7reMU9JuSON8bVcwpikcUCtC9nwoCBo7tZ1fyQabDvMxlBFRrm9btoGy5J_SnslufRoKWK7wodAo4IbzhL0Ktda8/s320/IMG_0274.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Snowboarder descending West Hourglass</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBJt31zwhxDSyVngq0OudGuBtkakNw0yC-jO5EA_1hCfEiOsFenbKXUOSB7Rvi-KKtVY-CR2_snDxXxojUcmGJPPHMSMKVBFGi2CzCCp-b4HJfQmgsgcK0c192NPdAyQU5q-RneePIfX4/s1600/IMG_0276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBJt31zwhxDSyVngq0OudGuBtkakNw0yC-jO5EA_1hCfEiOsFenbKXUOSB7Rvi-KKtVY-CR2_snDxXxojUcmGJPPHMSMKVBFGi2CzCCp-b4HJfQmgsgcK0c192NPdAyQU5q-RneePIfX4/s320/IMG_0276.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Same</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGixWUbLx62Ls56gx1crBEYUjWDrf2n8XBgHlVXjYesOFAy7N7Gc-NxcYuYEu3QdhR2u6vQJFCMwz-Wp6XPWx84FEREJpqmCto3kQy76FLEHKSILA7m9d5FgwZVsK8wWu5CiC2A5Lf7zE/s1600/IMG_0284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGixWUbLx62Ls56gx1crBEYUjWDrf2n8XBgHlVXjYesOFAy7N7Gc-NxcYuYEu3QdhR2u6vQJFCMwz-Wp6XPWx84FEREJpqmCto3kQy76FLEHKSILA7m9d5FgwZVsK8wWu5CiC2A5Lf7zE/s320/IMG_0284.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">East Hourglass Couloir</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYD03AlLp2HChxDXfsw8LTscllqpW1gzqOJfqGXBQhuZGDwEdp6myDanZ52mAxM-EmH9mH1q6xk9uFMEYZL3gKzzO1cSKueMjkelHJi30jchiOJVVIIKN2MmJh9W6ULQ9-t2KQx8F7Zyk/s1600/IMG_0286.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYD03AlLp2HChxDXfsw8LTscllqpW1gzqOJfqGXBQhuZGDwEdp6myDanZ52mAxM-EmH9mH1q6xk9uFMEYZL3gKzzO1cSKueMjkelHJi30jchiOJVVIIKN2MmJh9W6ULQ9-t2KQx8F7Zyk/s320/IMG_0286.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">East Hourglass Couloir</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qpcABrvAKVWocahbDgKElGa3QCGZl_twind8xhG4zwpZvEhR1Ks6a7j19DDnXNseCG22lseq9qBddJQSjQVCH6gKiJMRq-2fpCs5XhkkK3G9tjDXrFd5W2u0oUZOLcSVrzCiLIYf92E/s1600/IMG_0287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qpcABrvAKVWocahbDgKElGa3QCGZl_twind8xhG4zwpZvEhR1Ks6a7j19DDnXNseCG22lseq9qBddJQSjQVCH6gKiJMRq-2fpCs5XhkkK3G9tjDXrFd5W2u0oUZOLcSVrzCiLIYf92E/s320/IMG_0287.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">West Hourglass, at 50+ degrees</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7-k9eQoYPN4wSgS-7UfURIZnLJ1_ftHdtGwP7ohOjp9RrYAZvc0wDuVZyqF_grzxQKFMjLZS6ZOCj5OJ3xJGrtGXk6SVgK7rJsbUcWCKe6ihclORY_4tPo92FH7XxdQmXr8hyphenhyphenxvbcPjM/s1600/IMG_0289.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7-k9eQoYPN4wSgS-7UfURIZnLJ1_ftHdtGwP7ohOjp9RrYAZvc0wDuVZyqF_grzxQKFMjLZS6ZOCj5OJ3xJGrtGXk6SVgK7rJsbUcWCKe6ihclORY_4tPo92FH7XxdQmXr8hyphenhyphenxvbcPjM/s320/IMG_0289.JPG" width="240" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">East Hourglass Couloir</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguUSmtrIAL8KfJXjlZCWBWVnKGG5g-pkhWIDuZzmfe633QR4GRyBWSgf9lRFKIqrVBv7v-pzT2vPVUh-0ouyryjmhwMJMek6yW1ZXcyw_Xe9xGBO_oOkWuv7AuvOcMwsGzyPXDpBNprDo/s1600/IMG_0291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguUSmtrIAL8KfJXjlZCWBWVnKGG5g-pkhWIDuZzmfe633QR4GRyBWSgf9lRFKIqrVBv7v-pzT2vPVUh-0ouyryjmhwMJMek6yW1ZXcyw_Xe9xGBO_oOkWuv7AuvOcMwsGzyPXDpBNprDo/s320/IMG_0291.JPG" width="240" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">East Hourglass</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNuEmZA0Byti9H5Yastp63CLNPbY9qGjH97AKQ4mp9mvY_6b8beEiGS73_MkQfWXz8fCrWwfJAkEa2vHlvIT87zydmtxKcXj059bjIxpXD-ndX_fPILa0yRrOHTWimdqXlwlkEJxP1_J8/s1600/IMG_0292.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNuEmZA0Byti9H5Yastp63CLNPbY9qGjH97AKQ4mp9mvY_6b8beEiGS73_MkQfWXz8fCrWwfJAkEa2vHlvIT87zydmtxKcXj059bjIxpXD-ndX_fPILa0yRrOHTWimdqXlwlkEJxP1_J8/s320/IMG_0292.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Upper Garnett Canyon</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-QYLkM56jalPAG9AJ7vGfvcRDZSTbruA3R95Zw3ec-45VWyfJpltClg8x5x_aQ0a1hq_z_09fy84weEuuubGSZdRPwLq0Dwi34cjubgV07BG4NENl5senBtRnG9AR-e68M0UObouYMhY/s1600/IMG_0295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-QYLkM56jalPAG9AJ7vGfvcRDZSTbruA3R95Zw3ec-45VWyfJpltClg8x5x_aQ0a1hq_z_09fy84weEuuubGSZdRPwLq0Dwi34cjubgV07BG4NENl5senBtRnG9AR-e68M0UObouYMhY/s320/IMG_0295.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Two skiers ascending upper Garnet Canyon</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBi4ZuzKX1u4Vh05QdbTBN_QYsvc-dbPLk33CMVNTgixwmuBacLQY49vGItcWCPuJip0kABVT_1iMKI6tMvXhxLShWeovLhsnrpSPQOf80cphF33iVkr1y9LCckeSwfChH84KG2ED2Ic8/s1600/IMG_0297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBi4ZuzKX1u4Vh05QdbTBN_QYsvc-dbPLk33CMVNTgixwmuBacLQY49vGItcWCPuJip0kABVT_1iMKI6tMvXhxLShWeovLhsnrpSPQOf80cphF33iVkr1y9LCckeSwfChH84KG2ED2Ic8/s320/IMG_0297.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Same, close up</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLc37KP4F3hnOpW0Xeo_kunrMM-O3f1xUwpEwoQQYiD9ljvfd2XtOq4pgKoHNLfQQ6kSyFNIfwnLRxekNEUbWrlOiijl10qZjMUg-C4WgIlP1v1l92KitFDmjH4Wk1lSggW_TI_D1lRZE/s1600/IMG_0300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLc37KP4F3hnOpW0Xeo_kunrMM-O3f1xUwpEwoQQYiD9ljvfd2XtOq4pgKoHNLfQQ6kSyFNIfwnLRxekNEUbWrlOiijl10qZjMUg-C4WgIlP1v1l92KitFDmjH4Wk1lSggW_TI_D1lRZE/s320/IMG_0300.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Same</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibBCyCCruBR3r1pIgVOfDg0nJmBJ1ATZvOB5AaASoYsMnzTaOp6okB5fSEMa2LwIIlIoNwIRpbNre_RUUTos6Jvqypow-86SA7EoOyCuFbTKrk3zyfv6HP0CgIbTkFIb8zg8SCTRBmnMs/s1600/IMG_0302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibBCyCCruBR3r1pIgVOfDg0nJmBJ1ATZvOB5AaASoYsMnzTaOp6okB5fSEMa2LwIIlIoNwIRpbNre_RUUTos6Jvqypow-86SA7EoOyCuFbTKrk3zyfv6HP0CgIbTkFIb8zg8SCTRBmnMs/s320/IMG_0302.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Same</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjmn9s8sqwAMlWttiKeUdLulpMb4MErclgxzNRI31y6AWiz8nv8jeZgizXrjTtdDRNcfmbp4dmiVfdDz-p3ZgV1X9lTQCk1zqEiQO2n6aE8P-VKU8j9nMGpHWHH0UXZLpltVZMabvXI1g/s1600/IMG_0306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjmn9s8sqwAMlWttiKeUdLulpMb4MErclgxzNRI31y6AWiz8nv8jeZgizXrjTtdDRNcfmbp4dmiVfdDz-p3ZgV1X9lTQCk1zqEiQO2n6aE8P-VKU8j9nMGpHWHH0UXZLpltVZMabvXI1g/s320/IMG_0306.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">West Hourglass, looking up towards choke</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmVebEMxmkB7mpKOPs9Lzjfjrx7DqoIsplUHj5xa8PXxmfZXeT5GCRG6gbcjG8OJ0RbANOiVbbrBSz-b-awZLrnX25UzSmz4R4IRMlOus284Kgwij5I7k1dqvsRfhaw4I0MrK8GEzhVEs/s1600/IMG_0308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmVebEMxmkB7mpKOPs9Lzjfjrx7DqoIsplUHj5xa8PXxmfZXeT5GCRG6gbcjG8OJ0RbANOiVbbrBSz-b-awZLrnX25UzSmz4R4IRMlOus284Kgwij5I7k1dqvsRfhaw4I0MrK8GEzhVEs/s320/IMG_0308.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">West Hourglass</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX2REsfzZN0WumLJAxHegiE97gka7ZKSziJqo5KVu0lqhvOZ6uXQtDInlsuyRo6P5RzNMNFtOJ-89hXVxUb1uzVsAHYwEQSkvIk0VxZqjFALUnsYvIy7I-S_ZRnFuyVoaoq4UnqYavUKU/s1600/IMG_0310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX2REsfzZN0WumLJAxHegiE97gka7ZKSziJqo5KVu0lqhvOZ6uXQtDInlsuyRo6P5RzNMNFtOJ-89hXVxUb1uzVsAHYwEQSkvIk0VxZqjFALUnsYvIy7I-S_ZRnFuyVoaoq4UnqYavUKU/s320/IMG_0310.JPG" width="240" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">West Hourglass</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_8rfoDfBn_1JdlG3m4zOsLMATa46z0bjY1Gti26cTKAMqW7DoUbjC-rYCeSmZq46uikcVlz6IuHrxtCkac6OgIjzigoDCGxjinrst8OKhig0kkgTxogQz1IiZ9xzoGpK7o_tho8FDCQ/s1600/IMG_0311.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_8rfoDfBn_1JdlG3m4zOsLMATa46z0bjY1Gti26cTKAMqW7DoUbjC-rYCeSmZq46uikcVlz6IuHrxtCkac6OgIjzigoDCGxjinrst8OKhig0kkgTxogQz1IiZ9xzoGpK7o_tho8FDCQ/s320/IMG_0311.JPG" width="240" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">West Hourglass</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWUF-aL3VOXwWqCwRoCrVu1iqTP8DFArfjbL9wynHOkK_A8Xnp0KNrWM0jBOpHWDTFCEVolsYSEbvRwhD8yVRySBk_zNT0JySCgOZbyd_lyygnVR5Rxok6Oj-sUiffHVCyDj6PoliZLU4/s1600/IMG_0314.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWUF-aL3VOXwWqCwRoCrVu1iqTP8DFArfjbL9wynHOkK_A8Xnp0KNrWM0jBOpHWDTFCEVolsYSEbvRwhD8yVRySBk_zNT0JySCgOZbyd_lyygnVR5Rxok6Oj-sUiffHVCyDj6PoliZLU4/s320/IMG_0314.JPG" width="240" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The Grand</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR5RamnGQYAJnQ5rFGqJFY87Yj_0kfUJlMVyUyKot9PEH9YXAi2LoeyJWLgCkq_o9Pe3eyrUEM8WFNspDpypmGIZ4b_PqP_MVij2RdUMwwoD28-X0flpJBRHHWgsuFhgV54AAJiYn5MSE/s1600/IMG_0315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR5RamnGQYAJnQ5rFGqJFY87Yj_0kfUJlMVyUyKot9PEH9YXAi2LoeyJWLgCkq_o9Pe3eyrUEM8WFNspDpypmGIZ4b_PqP_MVij2RdUMwwoD28-X0flpJBRHHWgsuFhgV54AAJiYn5MSE/s320/IMG_0315.JPG" width="240" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Close up of the Grand, Teepee Pillar in foreground</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhGnVqVn1JezWK49SjdNI1Q54g1SPqBWYnyA7LHl4B7TUivcHx6rkrO_17ZgGKco5raJj5_KyttdaVvBBisA5imR8PCVHe-XijSOwN2PbpvG2GIoIMvBZeOhtMdkWlcrmYaXYebOeni3s/s1600/IMG_0316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhGnVqVn1JezWK49SjdNI1Q54g1SPqBWYnyA7LHl4B7TUivcHx6rkrO_17ZgGKco5raJj5_KyttdaVvBBisA5imR8PCVHe-XijSOwN2PbpvG2GIoIMvBZeOhtMdkWlcrmYaXYebOeni3s/s320/IMG_0316.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">West Hourglass, two-thirds up</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbEt6_mir2h43kWHznHNGsFoqjX5HYvO99Lrn1Javt8NatqFGPpdGgyKMe_8t3PIYQeDVv_JYm7cPpriVk8GCX7gKSgVR_rJf-dl-UqEXfABP-HDIBzP-7IykTO5hQHjytmdyrmICClp4/s1600/IMG_0320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbEt6_mir2h43kWHznHNGsFoqjX5HYvO99Lrn1Javt8NatqFGPpdGgyKMe_8t3PIYQeDVv_JYm7cPpriVk8GCX7gKSgVR_rJf-dl-UqEXfABP-HDIBzP-7IykTO5hQHjytmdyrmICClp4/s320/IMG_0320.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Grand Teton</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNllYZai5AhwgzedMNByUpkwU5N4CZiQ-RZq3lCpPEE3tdaGLIhnkWl3GpLddgWl24uB6TxDPj9XQrirAYmxc7kgJ0_EFte1ZQrj_N-zW-dZtShT6DL66mUablLvuFDkfLZjOFnREJ3H8/s1600/IMG_0327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNllYZai5AhwgzedMNByUpkwU5N4CZiQ-RZq3lCpPEE3tdaGLIhnkWl3GpLddgWl24uB6TxDPj9XQrirAYmxc7kgJ0_EFte1ZQrj_N-zW-dZtShT6DL66mUablLvuFDkfLZjOFnREJ3H8/s320/IMG_0327.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">West Hourglass from the top (6:00 p.m.)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1B-WQD06Goq7H2Kx2lQR3locr7wUOLmUhuQjTA-iETz7nK9L55qiOwoTTVESL4jSSW8ouSBXgNDklNO9HyBRG2htljDdukOJqrJWCDR8ZXwif8Q8aSXrgJF7nuqvvilFGmwwAcyGp7OQ/s1600/IMG_0342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1B-WQD06Goq7H2Kx2lQR3locr7wUOLmUhuQjTA-iETz7nK9L55qiOwoTTVESL4jSSW8ouSBXgNDklNO9HyBRG2htljDdukOJqrJWCDR8ZXwif8Q8aSXrgJF7nuqvvilFGmwwAcyGp7OQ/s320/IMG_0342.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Campsite</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWehJgt5JEkqU6Q7T6Jij6z2Zl6eLdLq-Fc9Wkybuf_XJwA6jcVedtRsIOLkHiZjTg0lFkGGBklsGcMgnMMl-BjlLPdWoA15ssdeqYiUuVEYzatnaZ6M7WbFQHCoz1E88fFQIFRfuQHTg/s1600/IMG_0343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWehJgt5JEkqU6Q7T6Jij6z2Zl6eLdLq-Fc9Wkybuf_XJwA6jcVedtRsIOLkHiZjTg0lFkGGBklsGcMgnMMl-BjlLPdWoA15ssdeqYiUuVEYzatnaZ6M7WbFQHCoz1E88fFQIFRfuQHTg/s320/IMG_0343.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Campsite</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFBlDDLQzl21duXIR5k5bvOb3raPZryIv47T5ZlMsFsDfbAFxaAJLm_paqkPIXkPREPA_KcDQLMlShz4jUIYU4Gh9YlZHUEo7pnEF5iAZIN9yYfJz9iBxqR3m2l7hzuWXRbnnvaGOrO8U/s1600/IMG_0344.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFBlDDLQzl21duXIR5k5bvOb3raPZryIv47T5ZlMsFsDfbAFxaAJLm_paqkPIXkPREPA_KcDQLMlShz4jUIYU4Gh9YlZHUEo7pnEF5iAZIN9yYfJz9iBxqR3m2l7hzuWXRbnnvaGOrO8U/s320/IMG_0344.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Middle Teton</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcEZ4FgSebVmg4vq8MYjohxiSWpIfrNX8XcrmhX2O-B6zeVQoMAH2wC6Ve5RUkZpMIEXXLExXP1HIY-atK12xsux217VPNAfnDCNsq-HIQ5euYaNWBNB-HMxxlSXFYOIZyFpW8f5X8OA0/s1600/IMG_0346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcEZ4FgSebVmg4vq8MYjohxiSWpIfrNX8XcrmhX2O-B6zeVQoMAH2wC6Ve5RUkZpMIEXXLExXP1HIY-atK12xsux217VPNAfnDCNsq-HIQ5euYaNWBNB-HMxxlSXFYOIZyFpW8f5X8OA0/s320/IMG_0346.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Middle Teton</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigQRlW9WGDHUmJ67bVSMmsKrQXto7m673PQbs3pNbhFr-PpL6O9Fr8KKJ9SY39w_ufuheOxSmXCchC24xyplaRaArrccs5wVHxv3GCMSjQdheur7UOe1j9RgiLAQ5ZKvLGf1lcT8oo-IM/s1600/IMG_0347.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigQRlW9WGDHUmJ67bVSMmsKrQXto7m673PQbs3pNbhFr-PpL6O9Fr8KKJ9SY39w_ufuheOxSmXCchC24xyplaRaArrccs5wVHxv3GCMSjQdheur7UOe1j9RgiLAQ5ZKvLGf1lcT8oo-IM/s320/IMG_0347.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Self-portrait</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJR7LSP7V9AH48YgxOAR131_uq8Q9U7rgd2GMqrhJ-rfFbRLSMAXGRLIJynYHwthyZ0LIomw_DKjLaPdmvVDuV77GL4ZaFqIRUWWLzaTFmRiXyEBFnDt5rnWC33cprQregGwIdsdtSCnE/s1600/IMG_0348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJR7LSP7V9AH48YgxOAR131_uq8Q9U7rgd2GMqrhJ-rfFbRLSMAXGRLIJynYHwthyZ0LIomw_DKjLaPdmvVDuV77GL4ZaFqIRUWWLzaTFmRiXyEBFnDt5rnWC33cprQregGwIdsdtSCnE/s320/IMG_0348.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Middle Teton</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Shadow Peak Cirque</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq8SCKus_Ss61epLXWyb04zOrXtMPi24XxiOAMdDqnJGOW4fuUpzJL6SOvTYBlMoSWnHdpxbaE5GZ9F3gU6B_1vJmVUum4Z2do8jqB3QcTai3BmB_ucjZmls3pZp7RkwA0zauRW5eV2Dw/s1600/IMG_0361.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq8SCKus_Ss61epLXWyb04zOrXtMPi24XxiOAMdDqnJGOW4fuUpzJL6SOvTYBlMoSWnHdpxbaE5GZ9F3gU6B_1vJmVUum4Z2do8jqB3QcTai3BmB_ucjZmls3pZp7RkwA0zauRW5eV2Dw/s320/IMG_0361.JPG" width="240" /></span></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">My line just above my campsite, bootpack visible below</span></div>
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The Other Half of the Story (from my facebook page):</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 14px;">I only knew Steve from occasional encounters at his gear shop in Jackson, when he was actually there and not skinning up a mountain somewhere. I felt I knew him more intimately, however, from reading the blogs on his website TetonAT.com, as I'm sure most of us who followed it did. His colorful descriptions and unqualified documentation of local ski descents, his attention to sometimes very esoteric details regarding equipment or travel, his enthusiasm for big, steep lines<span class="text_exposed_show" style="display: inline;"> and the mountains in general (especially the Tetons), indeed his life, served as inspiration to me and countless others. It's hard to believe that such an iconic and intrepid figure, with all his skill and experience, is actually gone from this world. If any single piece of news could discourage one in avoiding the backcountry altogether, this would surely qualify. Hell, It was from Steve's own website that we as a community got most of our information about avalanches and avalanche fatalities. I didn't know Chris at all, but I'm sure as Steve's regular skiing partner, he had similar and admirable traits. In any case, even to those unfamiliar to them, they are both worth at least a few minutes to read about, remember, and ponder. Courtesy of Andrew McLean:</span></span></div>
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<strong><a data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=627787303" href="http://www.facebook.com/notes/andrew-mclean/reembering-steve-romeo/401817293167872" style="color: #3b5998; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none;" target="">Reembering Steve Romeo</a></strong></div>
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Well shit. Sad news today from Jackson Hole today that Steve Romeo and Chris Onufer were buried and died in an avalanche somewhere in the Grand Teton National Park. I didn't know Chris, but had spent quite a bit of time with Steve and my thoughts go out to both their families and friends. ...</div>
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By: <span class="uiAttachmentDetails" data-ft="{"type":12}" style="color: #333333;"><a data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=627787303" href="http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=627787303" style="color: #3b5998; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none;">Andrew McLean</a></span></div>
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Jackson Hole employee Chris Onufer and ski blogger Steve Romeo killed in avalanche</div>
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David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-68466537748643221582012-03-08T15:40:00.002-07:002012-03-08T15:40:53.708-07:00Outside Magazine's Best Skiing in EuropeCheck out this article from my (facebook) friend, Kelley McMillan. Looks like she's done her homework on this one:<br />
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<a href="http://www.outsideonline.com/adventure-travel/The-Top-10-Ski-Resorts-in-Europe.html" target="_blank">http://www.outsideonline.com/adventure-travel/The-Top-10-Ski-Resorts-in-Europe.html</a>David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-35179970487933545912012-02-16T03:52:00.005-07:002012-11-22T16:47:27.477-07:00Sad News from Telluride<div style="text-align: justify;">
It's been said before. In every avalanche education class I've ever attended, the sober warning goes something like this: simply by virtue of attending this course, at some point in the future, someone you know, a friend, a colleague, a ski partner, will die in an avalanche. Well, it's happened. But I can't say it happened to <i>me. </i>It happened to Nathanael Soules, a longtime Telluride local, husband, father, snowboarder, skateboarder, hockey player, real estate professional, TellSki manager, my friend and former co-worker. Nate died Monday in an avalanche while snowboarding in the sidecountry terrain of Bear Creek, just outside the Telluride resort boundary. He was 38. He was in a natural slide path known as Contention, when a large slab fractured above him and carried him 900' to his death. It is an area well known to me; it happens to be one of my favorite couloirs in North America, but it will never hold the same ephemeral meaning for me again. A narrow, steep, and jagged slice of geologic heaven that once delivered regular doses of backcountry bliss will now be permanently scarred by the thought of today's tragic news. I've ridden that couloir many times, always alone, too eager and too selfish to share its location with others, even my friends. Apparently Nate had similar notions, as he too was riding alone, albeit on a day with significant avy danger. I didn't know Nate very long or very well, but I knew him as a kind, intelligent, and thoughtful man, one whom I thought would make a good friend if I could ever make the move to Telluride permanent. I will never know that possibility. Once, after working an event together, I asked Nate to join me on a dangerous route I had planned for the afternoon outside of the resort. He declined, saying "I don't ride big lines like that anymore," and explained that once you have a wife and kid, your risk tolerance changes. At the time, I thought I understood, and I envied his self control. I know now that family is not the only thing that can change your perspective.</div>
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<a href="http://www.watchnewspapers.com/view/full_story/17518264/article-Avalanche-Kills-Sidecountry-Snowboarder-in-Contention?instance=top_story" target="_blank">Avalanche Kills Sidecountry Snowboarder in Contention</a><br />
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<a href="http://mtnweekly.com/snowboarder-dies-in-telluride-while-wearing-abs-pack-and-avalung-28636" target="_blank">Snowboarder Dies in Telluride While Wearing ABS and Avalung</a><br />
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<a href="http://mtnweekly.com/snowboarder-dies-in-telluride-while-wearing-abs-pack-and-avalung-28636"></a><a href="http://www.telluridenews.com/articles/2012/02/15/news/doc4f3b0d5e0f75b597985379.txt" target="_blank">http://www.telluridenews.com/articles/2012/02/15/news/doc4f3b0d5e0f75b597985379.txt</a><br />
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<br />David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-20717635552139204742012-02-07T13:01:00.006-07:002012-03-05T14:58:07.843-07:00The Best Ski Towns in the WorldCheck out this article written by my friend Aaron Teasdale for National Geographic Adventure magazine:<br />
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<a href="http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/trips/best-ski-towns-photos/#/ketchum-sun-valley-ski_48144_600x450.jpg" target="_blank">World's 25 Best Ski Towns</a></div>David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-59914538805738316972012-02-07T12:36:00.006-07:002012-08-06T06:58:54.094-06:00SLO<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
In my never-ending quest to find the perfect place to live, I decided to check out the happiest place in America, San Luis Obispo, CA. With hiking and biking trails all over town, the beautiful Pacific Ocean just a few minutes away, an estuary and a deepwater harbor before that, and a quiet, quaint, and pedestrian friendly downtown, this place comes pretty close. But unless you like cold water, and you are either independently wealthy (jobs are scarce and real estate is expensive), or a college student looking to have a good time, keep searching. Trip tip: take a break from all the nearby outdoor activity at one of the coolest coffee shops in the country, <a href="http://kreuzbergcalifornia.com/" target="_blank">Kreuzberg</a>, on Higuera street. <a href="http://www.npr.org/2010/11/28/131571885/how-to-thrive-dan-buettner-s-secrets-of-happiness" target="_blank">NPR article/story on finding happiness</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0FXCkOSbae7dTsrTtcoimCIfZEt-Wa-sB7sKjwLiQXAHEJOipglCjKe0ki6JYmWQsiXt9XSxOd9rOawCN_g-fge4Mid53gdvXvL_9iLWkj4lTDTp422ye1bUdp0nlzCVo1f401XXrAk/s1600/IMG_0434.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0FXCkOSbae7dTsrTtcoimCIfZEt-Wa-sB7sKjwLiQXAHEJOipglCjKe0ki6JYmWQsiXt9XSxOd9rOawCN_g-fge4Mid53gdvXvL_9iLWkj4lTDTp422ye1bUdp0nlzCVo1f401XXrAk/s320/IMG_0434.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-8009158837088340222012-02-03T16:18:00.041-07:002012-04-22T20:39:33.091-06:00AMGA Ski Guide CourseIn the Wasatch, near Salt Lake City and Logan, Utah<br />
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In the last week of January, 2012, I participated in the American Mountain Guide Association's Ski Guide Course as precedent to a Ski Mountaineering guide certification. It is the first of a series of four grueling multi-day courses in which you are tested and scrutinized in the field and in the classroom by a team of supremely gifted and highly qualified instructors for ten hours a day with little thought given to a proper lunch or snack break. In this case, I was tortured and tested for 12 days straight, mostly in the backcountry terrain of Big Cottonwood and Little Cottonwood canyons just outside Salt Lake City, Utah. Not only did I have to contend with a nagging knee injury and poor stamina throughout the course (and a lack of confidence in the midst of an accomplished group of skiers and climbers), but also the worst snowpack in Utah in recent memory. On our second day, we were treated to a stability analysis by a local avalanche forecaster, Drew Hardesty, who works under Bruce Tremper, director of the Utah Avalanche Center, and one of the world's preeminent snow scientists. Drew shared with us his intimate knowledge of the region's snowpack, which consisted of several dense layers of heavily loaded slabs, recently deposited by a powerful storm, sitting on a full 70cm layer of faceted snow (or "total shit" as he would put it), the worst he had ever seen. Not the kind of information you want to hear at the outset of a program which would require us to spend the majority of our waking hours travelling over the surface of this very snowpack. He accurately predicted a period of heavy avalanche activity and almost certain fatalities in the days ahead. Indeed, several skiers and snowboarders were caught over the next few days, most narrowly escaping serious injury and death. The one exception was a single snowboarder, caught and fatally wounded in a massive slide in a canyon adjacent to ours on the fourth day of class. <br />
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The imminent danger that was hanging over us magnified the importance of the skills being taught in our class, which focused primarily on leading and protecting clients in the backcountry, while practicing good decision-making and minimizing risk whenever possible. We studied weather and terrain, snow stability and hazard evaluation, track setting and backcountry navigation, rapelling and belaying, raising and lowering, short roping and short pitching, rescue sled and emergency snow shelter construction. The group consisted of a variety of students, each with different backgrounds, strengths and weaknesses, which we would use to our collective advantage. Several were expert skiers or heli guides; some were serious alpinists or rock climbers; others were guides or instructors themselves, and a few were, like myself, just hard-core recreationalists. At least one (my housemate) had summited Everest. Another skiied regularly with some of the most famous skiers in the world, and had played a part in one of my favorite ski documentaries. Others were involved in projects that defied imagination, including one who was intent on climbing all 50 of North America's most dangerous routes, an elusive goal and one which has apparently never been completed (he is currently on climb #37). Yes, this was the company I was keeping, whom I would lead on tours and sleep on the floor of backcountry yurts with...intimidating to say the least. Still, I perservered, and managed to complete the course to the satisfaction of my instructors, with only a few minor failings, which will have to be made up at some future date. I don't know yet if I have it in me to be a mountaineering guide, or if there is even a job out there for me somewhere after my training. But, at a minimum, if the wide range of backcountry skills I learned in the process helps to keep me alive in my future exploits, it was time (and money) well spent.</div>
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<br /></div>David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-40185191748097000522011-12-26T21:54:00.038-07:002013-06-08T12:44:12.570-06:00Ski Mountaineering Camp in the Sawtooths<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
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In the last days of April, 2011, I attended a ski mountaineering camp with Sawtooth Mountain Guides near Stanley, Idaho in the Sawtooth Wilderness with my friend Brent Hutcheson and five other participants, one of whom was a professional freelance photographer and writer. The trip was featured as the cover story in the December issue of Sierra Magazine with the tag: <i>How To Not Die Doing This! </i>The camp lasted four days, and included clinics on avalanche rescue, backcountry travel, improvised sled construction, self-arrest, anchor-building, rappeling, belaying, and skiing on belay. We stayed in cozy backcountry yurts at treeline near the base of Thompson and Williams peaks, supported by three highly competent, intelligent, and friendly guides. The yurts, warmed by wood stove, had no running water or electricity, but light and radio communication was supplied, at least for a few hours a day, by remote solar panels. Lucky for us (or unlucky, depending on your perspective), a late winter storm hit just as we broke trail, dumping upwards of eight to ten inches of new snow, the catalyst for at least three significant avalanches that our group would later trigger (the largest one would take me for a ride). Happily, they were just surface slabs and ran at relatively low angles, so that nobody was buried or injured. At no time did we feel our safety had been compromised, as our guides were rigorous in their stability assessment, route selection, and spacing, and they exuded confidence. Indeed, we were well cared for: firewood was cut, coffee brewed, breakfast and dinner prepared for us every morning and evening, and at the end of each day's tour, where we would debrief in the comfort of the yurt, snacks and warm drinks awaited us. We hiked more than a thousand vertical meters a day, skiied some of the most aesthetic and challenging lines in the Sawtooths (in mid-winter powder conditions!), and learned a great deal about managing danger in the backcountry. It was a poor man's heli trip without the helicopter, and without the hand-holding. More photos (courtesy of <a href="http://www.teasdale.smugmug.com/" target="_blank">Aaron Teasdale</a>):</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><a href="http://www.sierraclub.org/sierra/201111/skiing.aspx"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">We're Skiing That?</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"> Sierra Magazine Article</span></a></span><br />
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David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-80830186767512117432011-12-25T20:38:00.080-07:002012-05-02T21:07:10.135-06:00In Patagonia<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A LETTER TO MY FATHER</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> (November 27, and December 4, 2011)</span></span></div><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hey Dad/Phyllis:</span></span><br />
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</span> </span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We are here in Puerta Natales after a long bus journey from El Chalten/El Calafate, and after having endured a ridiculously inefficient border entry process. But we got lucky again with lodging as we have most of our trip, landing at a very clean and quiet hospedaje hosted by a sweet old lady, Maria who doesn't speak a word of English! We are paying $12 USD per night, breakfast included! Puerta Natales is a strange place, beautifully situated on a sound several hours south from the main event, Torres del Paine Parque Nacional. It is a small, dilapidated town of ramshackle buildings with security bars on the windows, lots of brick and plywood and corrugated metal. But it is relatively well organized, and clean, unlike some of the towns we've visited in Argentina, where zoning and building regulations are apparently non-existent. Unfortunately, we may not get the opportunity to explore the town further, as we arrived late last night (about 11:30, just as the sun was setting!) and our bus to the park administration, where we will begin our four day trek, departs this afternoon. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;">El Calafate, AR, December 27-28:</span><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We spent two days here, mostly due to bus availability and scheduling, but partly because we wanted to see the Puerto Moreno glacier. We stayed in a clean but otherwise charmless motel near the bus station and rented a car nearby for 24 hours. It turned out to be a great decision, as we were able to explore places that we would not have been able to see with a tour bus, and we could make our own time. We arrived to the glacier early, beating the crowds, and were rewarded with near perfect weather conditions. It was an awesome sight, a massive 200 ft wall of ice perhaps 4-5 miles wide, and perhaps 50 miles long, just kissing, at its midpoint, the peninsula of land we stood upon. A maze of well constructed boardwalks offered a variety of vantage points for contemplating the huge mass of ice. The glacier was not static, but was constantly shifting and melting, uttering forth animal-like sounds that echoed across the two lakes it formed a millennia ago. It sounded something like a whale screeching and a car wreck all at the same time. We witnessed at least three calving events, with one piece the size of an office building (perhaps 150 ft high) shearing off, crashing, and splintering into a thousand pieces, creating a tsunami like wake that radiated across the water for hundreds of meters, or until it reached land, where it would crash with the force of a large ocean wave. Amazing!</span></span></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7aYCg2QBtQLqJ5camAlP7cqFOveuDnabXKRU0QGhDxw5OvOuXn8pKsLriJQSEd3KcEZhkcec7n7J3ay1ESgvku06o0mtU9N4XztBS1FqsAhhdA2zo-Z1FwtItHEbPd4sTGRWTNliuMPo/s1600/DSC_5558.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7aYCg2QBtQLqJ5camAlP7cqFOveuDnabXKRU0QGhDxw5OvOuXn8pKsLriJQSEd3KcEZhkcec7n7J3ay1ESgvku06o0mtU9N4XztBS1FqsAhhdA2zo-Z1FwtItHEbPd4sTGRWTNliuMPo/s400/DSC_5558.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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</span> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">El Chalten, AR December 22-26:<br />
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</div><div style="text-align: right;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OcFJvSek_nA/TvkilVlVkeI/AAAAAAAAAGY/kvbwGTM1dBM/s1600/DSC_4765.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="132" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OcFJvSek_nA/TvkilVlVkeI/AAAAAAAAAGY/kvbwGTM1dBM/s200/DSC_4765.JPG" width="200" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We arrived in El Chalten after a long day of travel that included a 6-7 hour plane ride connecting at Ushuaia, Argentina, the bottom of the world, and a four hour bus ride, made more arduous by Aerolineas Argentinas' decision to strike that day, delaying Lucas' flight (independent of mine; I flew LAN Chile) by 5 hours, which I spent with some discomfort at the unfairly priced airport terminal coffee shop. Most of the travelers there, I noticed, were a bit older, perhaps your age. They traveled in groups and looked as though they were arranged with local tour guides. We stayed in a refugio (or backcountry lodge) our first two nights with one such group. There were maybe 15 of them, all German, with one 24 year old girl from Savannah, Ga traveling alone, and a middle-aged couple from Australia. El Pilar Refugio was fantastic...a humble little house that looked like it started it's life as private hunting lodge and then added a wing or two as it became more popular as a commercial affair. You would have absolutely loved it! It was hosted by a young couple, both thoughtful and gracious, who cooked and cleaned and waited on us, and offered information and advice (and backcountry instructions!) on adjacent wilderness areas. Well appointed, with a warm fireplace, abundant reading materials, a good stock of Argentine wine, and located at least 45 minutes by gravel road north of town, El Pilar was the perfect place to begin our trek to the Fitzroy massif. </span></span></span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next day began with threatening rain and cold winds. We started out through lowland lenga forest and climbed slowly upward, reaching Mt. Fitzroy after several hours and a series of seemingly endless switchbacks. As we emerged from the ridge, we could barely make out the forms above us, as most of it was obscured by cloud. The clouds were in constant movement, but as soon as the vapor on the leading edges appeared to dissipate, they were replaced again by new clouds, never allowing a clear view of the big towers. The scene was made powerful still by its sheer size, by the three partially frozen lakes at the base of the towers, by the hanging glacial cirques above them, and by unrelenting winds of tropical force that threatened to topple us over at each step. </span></span><br />
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</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UckZF99zzmg/TvksZZm8coI/AAAAAAAAAHI/QHt18c6NUy8/s1600/DSC_4784.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="132" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UckZF99zzmg/TvksZZm8coI/AAAAAAAAAHI/QHt18c6NUy8/s200/DSC_4784.JPG" width="200" /></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After relocating to a hostel in town, and collecting some additional gear, we made plans for our first overnight hike, to an adjacent valley at the end of which stood another glacier, a large lake, and looming above it, one of the most difficult alpine climbs in the world, the impossibly jagged peaks of Cerro Torre. We spent Thanksgiving at a tiny cerveceria with new friends, Jamie, an urban planner from Seattle, a young couple from Holland, and a team of Argentine mountaineers who had just completed a six day crossing of the Glacier Viedma. Good beer, good food, and good times! </span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUg9WIO1EpTB29kAj2P13B7hRnnDVk91LX51FZfDWpRm9q0qsgxiBu7-ftg2NEdgXMcJDOgQtuKDIQwwnWN9GqHq9P3jTGpKz_6eiohR3_60X-9H8iRlvCX5MHHxaX6cWfvxAUCvEbK98/s1600/DSC_4970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUg9WIO1EpTB29kAj2P13B7hRnnDVk91LX51FZfDWpRm9q0qsgxiBu7-ftg2NEdgXMcJDOgQtuKDIQwwnWN9GqHq9P3jTGpKz_6eiohR3_60X-9H8iRlvCX5MHHxaX6cWfvxAUCvEbK98/s200/DSC_4970.JPG" width="200" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"></span>We set out in the morning and camped off-trail in the soft gravelly sand between the lateral moraines leading to the glacier. At sunset we got our best view of the peaks, but only for a few precious minutes, as the clouds were again unfriendly to us. I did manage to fire off a few good shots before it was all over, however. Sunrise was equally moody, and it soon started to rain. We persisted though, and after negotiating a river by zip line (I fashioned a seat/harness with two carabiners and some webbing I had in my pack), we hiked for several hours around the lake to a huge peninsula jutting out parallel to the face of the glacier, not more than a hundred meters away now. The sun shone briefly, allowing enough time for a quick dip in the ice cold water, some photography, and a chance to dry off. Only a few minutes later it would begin to snow! Along the way, we met a young German who had just walked upon the glacier and was shocked to learn of our swim! Ha, Imagine! He later accompanied us back across the river and to our camp where we celebrated our adventures with wine and cheese. Despite our disappointment at not seeing the towers clearly, it was still an incredible day!</span></span><br />
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</span> </span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Puerta Natales, Chile (Nov 28-Dec 3) <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4a7swuqd0lwwnHAissaZDOC4TxEl-n1Jkc1GrXL27G3VnUk1eN9iaVk7hlPPVin1Basl-3DYea0KVbe3QYM0X0TF6hBjM0hHXZMJjM_JVAJ_5RW7LIfs1lRs9tHH1Q4I0T3xo56VWGbo/s1600/DSC_6112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4a7swuqd0lwwnHAissaZDOC4TxEl-n1Jkc1GrXL27G3VnUk1eN9iaVk7hlPPVin1Basl-3DYea0KVbe3QYM0X0TF6hBjM0hHXZMJjM_JVAJ_5RW7LIfs1lRs9tHH1Q4I0T3xo56VWGbo/s200/DSC_6112.JPG" width="200" /></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having slept in from our first good sleep of the trip, we organized our bags and scheduled bus service to the park through Maria, mostly with gestures and hand signals. After some last minute shopping for supplies and groceries, we departed for the national park at 2:30 in the afternoon and arrived to the trailhead sometime around 6:00pm. Despite sore knees (both Lucas and I traded the use of trekking poles to minimize the pain), we were intent on arriving at camp that evening so that we could rise before dawn to hike a short trail and view the Torres at their most resplendent, before an alpine lake with the morning sun illuminating the 1,000 meter pinnacles of granite. After a rather grueling climb and a fitful sleep through a long night of high winds and cold temps, I arose at 4:00 am and made it to the lake just minutes before sunrise. I scouted for shots and set up my tripod in just the right spot, and as I was securing my camera in place, the sun began to creep over the ridge and paint the tops of the great peaks. It was a spectacular sight, first pink, then orange, and finally after 2 hours of filtering through a swarm of fast-moving clouds, light bathed the four towers a pale yellow, casting long shadows through the litter of giant boulders surrounding the lake, and reflecting images of the them on it's wind-whipped surface.</span></span><br />
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</span></span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next day required an extremely challenging down-climb given our alternating knee problems, and a long, hot overland hike to our next camp, Los Cuernos, nearly eight hours away. There we met up with our colleague from El Chalten, Felix (the engineering student from Munich who had walked on the glacier) set up camp in a beautifully exposed site next to the lake, and had dinner in the refugio with two other companions from the previous day's bus trip, the French couple, Pascal and Geraldine. It was a stunning setting, at the base of three huge crowns of rock rising nearly 8,000 ft straight above our tents, split by a series of waterfalls forming a stream that cascaded down and through the campamento, where the rustic refugio beckoned, serving up hot showers, a warm meal with new friends, and cheap Chilean wine...It proved to be well worth the effort.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbzBu5GLUj_sdH04pI_cwzHzNs2Xt3riQbCaSCxwwXDmDL7nYegRFRpShjvhf879XCrm3qyOxXL9G9EwUJSZTDawaBAoS1mbf77MeQOiqiG7_hvQs1CqgUqE1pvfgX5Llwd3_oinsqoCI/s1600/DSC_6172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbzBu5GLUj_sdH04pI_cwzHzNs2Xt3riQbCaSCxwwXDmDL7nYegRFRpShjvhf879XCrm3qyOxXL9G9EwUJSZTDawaBAoS1mbf77MeQOiqiG7_hvQs1CqgUqE1pvfgX5Llwd3_oinsqoCI/s200/DSC_6172.JPG" width="200" /></span></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U9GQ3Riwfa4/TvktT1eENjI/AAAAAAAAAHw/9wW4_ivvr2w/s1600/DSC_6162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="132" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U9GQ3Riwfa4/TvktT1eENjI/AAAAAAAAAHw/9wW4_ivvr2w/s200/DSC_6162.JPG" width="200" /></span></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVeeZTc0P9w/Tvks1AOJyKI/AAAAAAAAAHY/cHaWEWTSIQk/s1600/DSC_6191.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="132" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVeeZTc0P9w/Tvks1AOJyKI/AAAAAAAAAHY/cHaWEWTSIQk/s200/DSC_6191.JPG" width="200" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: right;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The French Valley, the crown jewel of the park, was our next destination, preceded by a short two hour hike to its base at Camp Italiano. The three of us, Lucas and Felix included, each found a space to set up our tents. I discovered one, still uninhabited, by a choice location next to the river. After some meticulous site clearing, rock arranging, and stream engineering for mosquito control, I set up my tent and invited all parties for dinner. Our plan was to save the valley for the morning, again rising before dawn, so we could both rest our weary bodies and enjoy the scenery under the best light. We did, and we did, and we found the valley worthy of its reputation. It was dominated by a huge wall of terraced rock, dripping with seracs and snow fields, and caked by layers of ice several hundred feet thick, all glowing pink from the rising sun, periodically but slowly self-destructing before our eyes, with thundering icefalls and avalanches that resonated for miles. Above that was a huge unglaciated cirque that was guarded by towers of different shape and size, including one that appeared like a shark's tooth, probably a thousand feet and a half in height with, at this hour, an unusual and very dramatic shadow cast across the whole of it's face. It was again, spectacular!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Later that morning, we broke camp, and began what would be a four day journey home. But first a three hour hike to another lake, followed by a 30 minute catamaran crossing, an hour's walk along a dusty road, lunch at the world's most scenic hotel, a quick dip in the frigid lake, and finally a sunset bus ride back to Hospedaje Maria and Puerta Natales. (the hotel, Hosteria Lago Pehoe, was actually a sad disappointment, as it's magnificent location on an island in the middle of the lake with an uninterrupted view of the whole Paine massif belied it's poor maintenance, its mediocre food, and terrible service)</span></span></div></div></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We came to Patagonia with certain notions, based mostly on postcard images of Torres del Paine found on the web and our travel books, and little else. (I had yet to read Bruce Chatwin's </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In Patagonia</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">). Sure, we expected to see big mountains and big forests and big open spaces. We expected to see glaciers. And we expected rain, lots of it. What we found was an immense landscape, mostly dry, mostly uninhabited, and nearly inhospitable, with scrubby vegetation (at least until we reached Chile), scatterings of bright red or yellow flowers, some rivers, and not just a few scenic massifs, but dozens, if not hundreds, as big or bigger than Torres del Paine itself. We saw not a few glaciers, but rivers of ice, and massive ice fields as big as Long Island. We saw not just plains, but vast stretches of land as far as the eye could see, much like the Great Plains in the States, but with an unending line of mountains on the horizon. While water seemed relatively scarce, we saw huge lakes nearly the size of the Great Lakes, that required a full afternoon to navigate around. The water was mostly aqua-marine in color, with large quantities of minerals reflecting in the sunlight. Rivers and streams were fewer in number, but where you encountered one, it contained the clearest and purist water, so that you could drink from it directly; and many times we did. Most of Patagonia's water seemed to be locked up in alpine lakes and glaciers, of which they are in abundance. While large trees were uncommon (at least in Southern Patagonia), there were scattered forests of lenga trees, evergreens with small deciduous-like leaves, mostly dwarf in size, and windblown, twisted and gnarled in fantastic shapes by the powerful winds. And despite repeated warnings of wet weather, we saw little in the way of downpour, but instead sleet and snow, fog and cloud, sun and rain, and hurricane force winds, all within a few minutes time! As they say in Colorado, if you don't like the weather, wait fifteen minutes. It is certainly no less true in Patagonia. It was the biggest landscape either of us had ever seen. It was vast and wild and pure. It was incomparably beautiful, and we were lucky to see if only a small piece of it. </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">See you back in the states! </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Love, David</span></span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div></div></div></div>David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3718941796172032350.post-1135657156416273832011-12-25T16:27:00.009-07:002012-02-09T15:53:51.545-07:00Canyoneering in Zion National Park<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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November 12, 2011<br />
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Hey Dad, </div>
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Still here in Zion treating myself to a nice homemade breakfast at the local coffee house--beautiful little place owned and operated by a young married couple from Illinois. Everything fresh and baked in house, good coffee, good photography, good music...perfect little joint! Im planning to leave around lunchtime for points north. Yesterday I did a 7 hour hike through Echo Canyon in Zion National Park with the guys I met here, one of whom is an expert climber/canyoneer. He treated us to a spectacular climb and hike through a massive canyon with multiple slots and rappels, the first one of which was easily 400ft as we used most of a 200m rope! We meandered through steep undulating walls of rock, waded through streams and pools, and negotiated over, around, and sometimes inside, water filled holes of various size and depth, often on belay or self-belay. We exited the canyon late in the afternoon at Observation Point and Weeping Rock, down hiking on a steep zig zag trail to the parking area, with the green floor and red walls of Zion Canyon and the winding Virgin river below us, the whole thing peppered with the colors of fall: yellow, magenta, and pale green. It was one of the best days of my outdoor life and I will not soon forget it!!! I am so lucky to have come on this trip, to this class, with this group of people, and in this special, special place! A little side note: Bill our guide, knows only 8 other people who have entered Echo canyon in this manner. That would make me the 11th person to do this rappel, and on the 11th day of the 11th month of the 11th year of this century, ha! </div>
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I will send some photos soon. Hope you guys are having a good weekend!</div>
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Love, David</div>
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Lake Jackson and the Grand Teton, December 21, 2011, the shortest day of the year</div>David Hewetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451148391580929032noreply@blogger.com